When should I plant vegetables in Utah?

Vegetable planting dates in Utah depend on your location, elevation, average last spring frost and the crop's tolerance for cold. Cool-season vegetables may be planted before the last frost, while warm-season vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and squash should generally be planted after frost danger has passed and the soil has warmed.

Utah does not have one statewide last frost date. Average last spring frost dates vary widely by city and elevation. Lower-elevation areas in southern Utah may finish freezing much earlier than mountain valleys and northern communities. Select the nearest location in the calculator to see the average date used for your planting recommendations.

Utah's elevation, mountain valleys, desert climate and local terrain create large temperature differences over relatively short distances. Two communities that are close together may have different frost dates, nighttime temperatures and growing seasons. A garden's slope, exposure, wind and nearby buildings can also create a local microclimate.

Choose the listed city that is nearest to your garden and has a similar elevation and climate. The Use My Location feature can identify a nearby community and select the closest supported planting location. When two locations are equally close, elevation and local growing conditions are usually more useful than distance alone.

After you select Use My Location and grant browser permission, the calculator compares your approximate coordinates with supported Utah planting locations. It then selects the nearest appropriate location and explains which planting dates are being used. Your precise location is not sent to USU by this calculator.

Yes. The selected planting location is stored in your browser so it can be restored on your next visit. The saved city stays on that browser and device. Clearing browser storage or using a private browsing window may remove the saved location.

The dates are planning estimates based on average frost information and USU Extension vegetable planting guidance. They cannot predict a specific year's weather or the conditions in every garden. Check the local forecast, soil conditions and your garden's microclimate before planting, especially near the beginning or end of a recommended window.

Treat the date as a practical target rather than a guarantee. Planting a few days earlier or later is often reasonable when soil and weather conditions are favorable. Delay planting if the soil is waterlogged, unusually cold or if a damaging freeze is forecast.

Many cool-season vegetables tolerate cold conditions better than warm-season crops. Depending on the crop and local conditions, examples may include peas, spinach, lettuce, radishes, carrots, beets, onions, potatoes, broccoli, cabbage and kale. Some young plants may still need protection during a hard freeze.

Tomatoes are warm-season plants and are usually transplanted outdoors after the danger of frost has passed. For better establishment, wait until nighttime temperatures are regularly near or above 50 degrees Fahrenheit and harden transplants outdoors before planting. The calculator adjusts the target date for the selected Utah location.

Indoor seed-starting dates are calculated backward from the local outdoor planting date. Tomatoes are commonly started several weeks before transplanting, while peppers generally need a longer indoor growing period because they develop more slowly. Use the dates on each vegetable card as the starting range for your selected location.

Direct seed means planting seed in the garden where the crop will grow rather than starting it indoors and transplanting it later. Crops such as carrots, peas, beans, corn and radishes are commonly direct seeded because they establish well outdoors or do not benefit from transplanting.

Transplant means placing an established seedling into the garden. Seedlings may be started indoors or purchased from a nursery. Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, broccoli and cabbage are often transplanted to give them additional growing time or a more controlled start.

This note indicates that the crop may be planted near a period when cold weather is still possible. A row cover, frost cloth, low tunnel or other suitable protection may help protect young plants. Remove or vent covers as temperatures rise and make sure the material does not crush tender plants.

Move the slider to a month you want to plan for. The calculator updates the planting snapshot, vegetable status and monthly tasks for that month. Select Return to this month to restore the current month's recommendations.

Plant Now identifies vegetables whose main outdoor planting date is near the selected date. Coming Up shows crops with a later planting date. Season Past shows crops whose usual spring planting date has already passed. These labels are planning aids and do not replace current weather and garden conditions.

Yes. Vegetable cards include fall planting information when it is available, and the monthly panel identifies fall planting windows that begin during the selected month. Fall dates are broader estimates because summer heat, first fall frost and the time needed for a crop to mature all affect successful fall planting.

Fall planting depends on more than the first frost date. Gardeners must also account for summer soil temperatures, decreasing daylight, crop maturity time and the possibility of early cold weather. The calculator therefore presents fall dates as general planning windows and encourages gardeners to adjust for local conditions.

Higher elevations generally have cooler nights, later spring frosts and shorter frost-free seasons. A garden that is several hundred feet higher than the selected city may need later spring planting and earlier fall planning. Cold air can also settle in low areas, so a valley-bottom garden may freeze before a nearby slope.

A microclimate is the set of conditions in a small area that may differ from the surrounding community. South-facing walls, raised beds and protected courtyards may warm earlier, while low spots, shaded areas and exposed sites may remain colder. Use the calculator as a starting point and adjust based on what you observe in your own garden.

Soil temperature can improve planting decisions, especially for warm-season vegetables. Beans, corn, cucumbers, melons, squash, peppers and tomatoes generally establish better after the soil has warmed. Cool-season vegetables can germinate and grow in cooler soil, although very wet or frozen soil should not be worked.

Cover susceptible plants before temperatures fall, secure the cover so wind cannot remove it and avoid placing plastic directly against leaves. Containers can be moved to a protected location. If a hard freeze is expected, delaying transplanting warm-season crops is usually safer than relying only on protection.

The current calculator is designed for vegetable planting dates. Some herbs have similar temperature needs, but flowers, perennial herbs, fruit trees and small fruits require different guidance. Use the linked USU Extension gardening resources for crop-specific recommendations.

The calculator uses USU Extension's Suggested Vegetable Planting Dates for Utah and location-based average frost information. The results translate that guidance into estimated indoor starting, outdoor planting and fall planning dates for the selected location.