Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
Do you have tips for edging my lawn?
Rate This FAQ
Although it is more work, finished, neat edges can make a landscape look polished and attractive. Lawn areas may look green and lush, but if the edges are uneven or untrimmed, the whole yard can seem unkempt.
Consider these tips to keep your landscape tidy.
• Remove and prevent grass from growing where it cannot be easily reached by a mower. This helps reduce edging time. Spray a non-selective herbicide such as Round-up or Finale to kill the grass and weeds around trees, fence posts, walls and rocks. Leave a large grass-free zone around trees and a smaller strip around rocks, fences and walls.
• Mix a pre-emergent herbicide such as Surflan with Round-up to prevent grass and weeds from returning. This kills existing weeds and deters germination for a few weeks.
• Design the landscaped area so it requires a minimal amount of edging or trimming. This means trees, shrubs and flowers should not be placed in the lawn, but in separate planting areas. Surround fences and rocks with some sort of edging material to prevent weeds and grass from growing up the fence or around the rocks.
• Consider the many materials that can be used as an edge around flower and shrub beds. Cement, redwood binder board, vinyl, rubber, bricks and other materials reduce the amount of trimming required. There is no perfect edging material, however. Each has benefits and drawbacks. Thick black rubber edging material holds its shape for many years, but can be expensive. Cheaper vinyl and plastic products are inexpensive, but tend to lose their shape over time. Redwood eventually wears out but is attractive and natural looking for many years. Cement, bricks and other hard materials last for many years, but can also be costly. Cement edging appears cold in a landscape and makes it difficult to change the shape of beds. Bricks are usually very moveable, but can be too mobile at times. Visit your local nursery or home improvement store to see available options.
• A cost-free option to maintain a clean appearance and keep grass in its place is to cut a 6 inch deep line between the bed and grass with a spade or shovel. A small scoop shovel leaves the straightest edge. This process needs to be repeated two or three times a year. Though it is cost free, it creates more regular work than the other methods.
* For information on other yard and garden topics, visit http://extension.usu.edu/
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- How do I kill gophers in my lawn?
- We will need to establish some native plants. How much do we have to water Greasewood, Four-wing Saltbush, Rabbitbrush, Green Ephedra, and Spiny Hopsage in #10 containers? We also have two trees, a 5'Utah Juniper and 3' tall Gambel Oaks to water. I understand it best to lightly water for a year and then wean them off in the wet season. Is this correct?
- What fall gardening tasks will help reduce plant pests next year?
- There are brown spots in my lawn every summer, some are round and others are ribbon shaped. What can I do to prevent this problem?
- When is the best time to seed native grasses such as streambank and western wheatgrass into an existing Kentucky Bluegrass lawn? Some of what I've read leads me to believe that it would be best to seed in late fall so the seed will germinate in the spring. But I wonder if it would be better to seed in early fall after stressing the KBG. I will also be seeding sheep fescue, but I've seen conflicting information on whether that is native or introduced. My goal is to have a lawn that can survive with no water, and stay green with very little water.
- I live on 25 acres on the border of Summit and Wasatch Counties at an elevation of 7,000 ft. I need to add some trees to the landscape both evergreen and shade? What are good choices for my high and cold location?
- How do I get rid of wild morning glory?
- I am wondering if I have some sort of fungus in my lawn.