COOP - Extension FAQs

Box Elder bugs have emerged already and are breeding. They get into the house and crawl all over the west facing exterior house wallsand are all over the vegetable garden beds. How do I erradicate them?

erin@biology.usu.edu (Erin Hodgson) — Mon, 14 Apr 2008 00:00:00 MST

Boxelder Bug Management.

Please read over our fact sheet for more information . In general, they are very difficult (if not impossible) to eradicate. Boxelder bugs are considered nuisance pests, but sometimes they can damage fruit. Mostly they accidentally move into homes for warmth during the winter and that’s when they really become a bother.

Do weevil turn into moths? If not where would moths come from in my food storage room? and how do you get rid of them?

briann@ext.usu.edu (Brian Nummer) — Mon, 11 Feb 2008 00:00:00 MST

Weevils are small beetles. Moths have a caterpillar stage, but are not weevils. Weevils are common grain infesting pests. Store grain in plastic buckets with dry ice or oxygen absorbers to kill live weevils or moths. If there are eggs, they won't be killed during that treatment. They can be killed by retreating the grain with dry ice of oxygen absorbers at a alater date. This publication http://extension.usu.edu/files/foodpubs/fn371.pdf can help give more details.

Is it safe to use outdoor lights inside on the Christmas tree

malbertson@usu.edu (Marilyn Albertson) — Wed, 12 Dec 2007 00:00:00 MST

You would want to read the label on the lights to see if they are suited forindoor use. Many lights are labeled as indoor/outdoor lights. However,outdoor lights are too hot for the indoor Christmas tree so make sure youread the package carefully before purchasing them. They look so similar toindoor lights that you might not realize they are outdoor if you don't look closely.

Can you substitute cooking oil for shortening/lard in a cake recipe in equal parts?

nedrac@ext.usu.edu (Nedra Christensen) — Thu, 06 Dec 2007 00:00:00 MST

The substitution for a cake would be in equal parts. You may want to cut back on fat and replace half with oil and half with applesauce. The moisture of the cake will be equivalent.
There are times when you can't replace shortening/butter in a recipe ---- pie crust.

Should I cut back my perennials for winter? High Country Gardens says to wait until early-mid spring, but that is contrary to what I have been doing. It is true that I suffer some loss each spring.

maggiew@ext.usu.edu (Maggie Wolf) — Thu, 29 Nov 2007 00:00:00 MST

You can tidy up herbaceous perennials before winter, but it's best to leave most of the freeze-killed tops there until the coldest part of winter is past. Here in the Salt Lake area, that is about mid-March.

If you want to cut them back in early winter, it won't really do any harm, except that the presence of the dead top acts to insulate the crown and roots from temperature swings from sunny winter days to frigid winter nights. Temperature swings can cause more freeze damage than if the plant stays continuously cold. The dead top also helps conserve soil moisture and prevents desiccation of any basal leaves that might stay green through winter(on the hardier species). So to compensate, you should cover the cut-back plants with an airy mulch, like chipped leaves or straw. This schedule may be a good alternative when you know you won't have time to
complete this task next spring.

I want to switch my current lawn (bluegrass with some bermudagrass infestation) to a low-water and low-growth grass. I have a front lawn that's in shade most of the day, and the back lawn is mostly in sun. Will dwarf tall fescue work in this situation? Do you have any recommendations for the best DTF variety(s) to use? Also, will the bermudagrass be able to survive on less water and compete with the fescue?

kelly.kopp@usu.edu (Kelly Kopp) — Tue, 27 Nov 2007 00:00:00 MST

Where are you located? Unless you are in Washington County, bermudagrass it is not technically legal for you to plant it. In Washington County, however, it is legal. If you are thinking of the bermudagrass as more of a weed, then the answer to your question is yes, it will be able to survive on less water and compete with tall fescue.

As far as dwarf tall fescue goes, it should do fine in the conditions that you've described. It's difficult for me to keep up with the latest
varieties, so I would recommend you contact your preferred seed/sod supplier to discuss variety recommendations. It would be really difficult for you to discern differences between varieties for your application anyhow.

My turkey brining recipe calls for 4 juniper berries crushed in the brine. Can I use the berries from my yard shrubs for this purpose?

briann@ext.usu.edu (Brian Nummer) — Wed, 21 Nov 2007 00:00:00 MST

Yes. Juniper berries are edible and safe to use. Use them sparingly, since they are usually a strong flavor.

Is it save to eat weevil?

briann@ext.usu.edu (Brian Nummer) — Mon, 05 Nov 2007 00:00:00 MST

It is safe to consume dead weevils. There is a very small risk that live weevils may harbor foodborne illness bacteria if they were recently feeding on contaminated foods.

The FDA allows certain levels of insect parts in foods: http://vm.cfsan.fda.gov/%7Edms/dalbook.html. They do this to avoid the alternative, which is to use huge amounts of pesticides which present hazards themselves.

If you have grains with live weevils they can be killed using dry ice and sealing the grains in a container. Smaller containers can use oxygen absorber packages.

I just inherited a pressure canner. It's pretty well used and I'm a little nervous about using it. I've never done pressure canning before. Is there a place where I can get it checked out for safety, and how do I learn how to use it.

briann@ext.usu.edu (Brian Nummer) — Tue, 30 Oct 2007 00:00:00 MST

Check with your local Extension Office. They can test the gauge and can look over the pressure canner. SOme really old models are not worth saving. New models cost as little as $80. Ask the Extension Agent if there any Master Canners in your county who could help you learn a little about canning.

Be sure and check out http://www.homefoodpreservation.com. They have all of the safe recipes and have many how-to's.

I rent out a condo in a very clean complex in Holladay. My new renter called me in a panic believing she has cockroaches. The service I then had spray the unit said "they had never seen cockroaches in 20 years here." She called again saying they still come out at night from under her refrigerator and dishwasher. I had her save some in a bag and overnight, something in the bag hatched and there were dozens. The adults look rather like the photo of a cockroach I downloaded from WikiPedia, but they are only about 3/4" long. Can you tell me about cockroaches in Utah? Who can I get to identify these insects? How can we get rid of them.

erin@biology.usu.edu (Erin Hodgson) — Mon, 29 Oct 2007 00:00:00 MST

It is very possible to have cockroaches in Utah. We have several different kinds here, and one way to identify them for sure is to send them up to our Diagnostic Laboratory in Logan. Fill out a submission form (including $5) and you should receive an answer in a few days.

http://utahpests.usu.edu/uppdl/files/uploads/I_SampleForm.pdf

Or you could take your samples to your County Extension Office. They could probably tell you right away.

I moved into my house, from out of state, with a yard full of weeds (dandelions, morning glories, etc.) When would be a good time to treat them? Before or after winter hits? Any suggestions of products to use? Thanks!

maggiew@ext.usu.edu (Maggie Wolf) — Tue, 23 Oct 2007 00:00:00 MST

If we have a few days with high temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees, you could go ahead and treat the weeds this fall. A basic weedkiller herbicide with 2,4-D in it will kill dandelions very effectively. Field bindweed (aka morning glory) is much more difficult to kill, and responds better to a glyphosate-containing (broad spectrum) herbicide. But you can only use that in areas where you want to kill ALL the plants - because it is non-selective.

Always spray on a calm day, preferably in the morning. Select an herbicide that is labeled for your purpose, and mix it according to the recommended rates for that purpose.
The USU Extension publication "Landscape and Garden Weed Control" is a useful tool to help you learn which herbicide to use. You can download that publication at http://extension.usu.edu/files

What is the proper time to fertilize fruit trees? Also, is there only one appropriate time of year to prune fruit trees?

maggiew@ext.usu.edu (Maggie Wolf) — Fri, 19 Oct 2007 00:00:00 MST

Spring and early summer are the times of year most commonly recommended
for fertilizing. Most of the time, most trees only need nitrogen. A soil
analysis will tell you if phosphorous or potassium should be added. The
general rule of thumb is to apply one-eighth to one-quarter pound actual
nitrogen per year for every inch of trunk diameter. So, a tree with a trunk
about 2 inches wide (diameter at breast height)should get about 10 ounces
(five-eighths pound)of ammonium sulfate every year. You could apply this in
spring only or you could split the amount into two applications - one in
early spring just as buds break and again in early summer.

The best time to prune is in spring before the tree leaves dormancy but
after the coldest part of winter is past. However, it's better to prune late
than never at all, up until July. Past then, you should do only very minimal
pruning or none at all, to avoid prompting re-sprouting that will deplete
the tree's energy reserves before it goes dormant again.

I am wrapping up my garden for the year. I have been looking at adding horse manure to my garden soil to boost the organic matter in it. This year I added NutriMulch (turkey manure blend) and that worked out well, but was expensive. I'm concerned about the soil quality. I notice that it's pretty hard when in big dry clods. Would I be hurting my garden to add green horse manure now, and tilling it in? I've read a little about deficiencies in the soil because of too much horse manure, so if it's safe or even a good idea to add to a garden, how much is the right amount?

maggiew@ext.usu.edu (Maggie Wolf) — Fri, 19 Oct 2007 00:00:00 MST

If you have an inexpensive source of organic matter (such as barnyard
waste), fall is the best time of year to add it to your garden. Added in
fall, salts that are typically high in manure can leach down through the
soil and deeper than the root zone (if we have enough rain and snowmelt).

Shredded leaves and other yard waste could be added now, too, and by spring
it will be broken down fairly well. It's getting late to plant a cover crop,
but a green manure crop like winter wheat, oats, vetch, clover, or winter
peas is an excellent way to sustain soil microbial life and activity through
winter, as well as preventing soil surface crusting or erosion.

You should probably limit the amount of manure added to about 4 inches
deep. Ideally, you will incorporate it to a depth twice as deep as the
applied amount.

I have many large 20-25 feet scrub oak trees on my property. I would like to thin and prune them from the tops in order for them to look like the lower scrub oak I have seen in the area, about 10-15 feet. How low can I cut them from their tops without injuring them and what is the best time of year to do so?

heidi.wayman@usu.edu (Heidi Wayman) — Wed, 17 Oct 2007 00:00:00 MST

The best way to prune a tree that has grown out of its space and is too tall is to use a method called crown reduction or drop crotch pruning. This method is preferred over topping or pollarding because it is healthier for the tree and the tree keeps a more natural appearance. When making the pruning cuts you want to cut back to lateral branches that are at least 1/3 of the diameter of the limb that is being removed. Once you have identified which branches you want to remove you will want to follow these steps:

With the first cut, make a notch on the side of the stem away from the branch to be retained, well above the branch crotch.

Begin the second cut inside the branch crotch, staying well above the branch bark ridge, and cut through the stem above the notch.
Cut the remaining stub just inside the branch bark ridge through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge.

This method of pruning will help make sure that you do not damage stem tissue when removing the branch. As with all types of pruning you want to avoid flush cuts, cutting the branch off flush with the trunk and stub cuts, leaving a short stub of the branch on the tree. Both flush cuts and stubs can contribute to increased stress and disease in your trees.

For most trees the best time to prune is when they are dormant. Fall is the most common time to prune trees. Pruning trees during this time will allow you to see the structure of the tree and help you decide where you will make pruning cuts. This will also reduce the chance of spreading diseases and excessive sap flow.

You can find more information, including illustrations of proper cuts and definitions of pruning terms, by following this link to the USDA Forest Service guide on how to prune trees. http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_prune/htprune.pdf

I have two new flowering pear trees that are being used as breakfast, lunch and dinner. I am not sure what is eating them the leaves have large scallops taken out of them. The lower branches have been affected more than the top ones. Any ideas?

heidi.wayman@usu.edu (Heidi Wayman) — Mon, 15 Oct 2007 00:00:00 MST

Without actually seeing the damage to your leaves it is difficult to give you an accurate diagnosis of what is happening. By your description there may be two different types of insects causing the notches in your pear tree leaves. Properly identifying what is causing the damage can help you decide on what control methods to use.

The first type of insect that causes damage like you described is a root weevil. Two common varieties that could be damaging your pear trees are Lilac Root Weevil (Otiorhynchus meridionalis) and Strawberry Root Weevil (Otiorhynchus ovatus). These insects are particularly hard to find on your plants because the adults hide during the day, only feeding at night and the larvae live in the root zone of the plant feeding on the tissues there. Because they can be difficult to find you could create a trap by placing a fold of burlap around the base of the tree or by burying a paper cup at soil level. This will allow you to collect a specimen. If it is root weevils a non-chemical method of control would be the use of commercial sticky traps placed in a protected area either in or near the tree. If you choose to use a chemical insecticide use one that is a Pyrethroid. The following link has more information on root weevils http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05551.html

The second type of insect that may be causing the damage is Leafcutter bees. They are a native species of pollinators that use the portion of the leaf that they have notched out in rearing their young. These insects are not pests and control practices are not recommended because they are very beneficial in helping to pollinate our crops and ornamental plants.

By following this link you can see pictures that show what typical damage of both Root Weevil and Leafcutter Bees looks like.

http://utahpests.usu.edu/ipm/files/uploads/HortAdvisories/2007/Hort-IPM-06-27-07.pdf

To help provide you with a better diagnosis of what is happening to your pear tree leaves you can bring a sample into the USU Extension Office located at 2001 S. State Street for identification. Our office hours are Monday through Friday 8:00 am to 5:00 pm.

Precautionary Statement: All pesticides have benefits and risks, however following the label will maximize the benefits and reduce risks. Pay attention to the directions for use and follow precautionary statements. Pesticide labels are considered legal documents containing instructions and limitations. Inconsistent use of the product or disregarding the label is a violation of both federal and state laws. The pesticide applicator is legally responsible for proper use.

I have rings in my lawn that are about two feet wide. I suspect they are fairy ring, but the description for fairy ring doesn't quite fit. The inside of the circle is not lush and green, it looks the same as the rest of the lawn. There is just a semi-dead cirle surrounding good lawn. Do you have any help for me.

heidi.wayman@usu.edu (Heidi Wayman) — Fri, 12 Oct 2007 00:00:00 MST

Without actually seeing your lawn it is difficult to give you an accurate diagnosis of your problem. There are several reasons that your lawn may have brown spots or rings. The most common culprit is water. If you have a sprinkler head that is blocked, missing, or broken it can cause some parts of your lawn to become brown. A check of your sprinkler system can help you to identify if this is the problem. You can find a once a month sprinkler system checklist at http://www.conservewater.utah.gov/OutdoorUse/MaintenanceCheck.htm.

Another reason you may be seeing brown rings in your lawn may be insect related. Before applying any pesticides it is very important to identify what kind of insect it is. The best way to diagnose an insect problem is to check the lawn. Insects typically feed on the edges of the brown spots. If you do find an insect but are unsure of what kind of insect it is the Utah Pests Webpage http://utahpests.usu.edu/ has a lot of information including pictures. You can also bring a sample of the insect into the USU Extension Office located at 2001 S. State Street for identification. Our office hours are Monday through Friday 8:00 am to 5:00 pm.

A third reason may be a fungal disease. There are two different diseases that match your description. The first is Necrotic Ring Spot. This is a cool season disease that shows up March through May and September through November. This particular disease is very common in 2 to 5 year old bluegrass lawns that have been established from sod. It shows up as dead circles or arches of browning lawn that range in size from a few inches to a few feet that are surrounded by a patch of green lawn that gives a donut appearance. The second disease is called Summer Patch. It has very similar symptoms as Necrotic Ring Spot. It becomes evident May through September. Some recommendations in treatment for fungal diseases are:

1) Control thatch buildup with regular core aeration at least once a year.
2) Water less frequently but to greater depth. The soil should be moistened 8 – 10 inches deep.
3) Remove layers of leaves from lawn during winter.

You can learn more about these turf diseases at http://utahpests.usu.edu/plantdiseases/htm/turf/turfdiseases.

To help provide you with a better diagnosis of what is happening in your lawn and a better treatment plan you can bring a sample into the USU Extension Office. To take your sample, dig a 4- to 6-inch chunk of lawn (including the soil) on the margin of a brown spot. Include a section with both living and dead turf.

I want to plant 4 fruit trees along the border of my garden. How much space must I give each tree between the brick wall border and between each tree? I am not sure if I should plant a semi-dwarf or dwarf tree for apricots and peaches but I would like a regular sized apple tree. Also, can Gala Apple trees grow here in Utah?

heidi.wayman@usu.edu (Heidi Wayman) — Thu, 11 Oct 2007 00:00:00 MST

When planting trees, including fruit trees you always want to keep in mind and plan for the mature tree’s height and spread. You can find this information on the tag that is attached to the tree when you purchase it. Once you know the general height and spread you can choose a variety that will be best suited to your location. Below is a table with basic spacing needs for fruit trees. You can find a more detailed list of spacing needs at http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/envirohort/426-841/426-841.html.

Gala apples are rated at a USDA hardiness zone of 5 and are one variety that can be grown successfully in Utah. Others you may want to consider are Cameo, Jonathan, Melrose, or Rome Beauty. If you would like to check the hardiness zone for your specific area you can find a map at the USDA website http://www.usda.gov/wps/portal/usdahome.

Another useful tool for fruit tree growers is the USU Tree Fruit IPM Advisories. It provides updates on current insect and disease sightings and outbreak predictions, and highlights upcoming concerns for tree fruit growers. A new advisory is posted each week of the growing season. You can find this information at http://utahpests.usu.edu/ipm/htm/advisories/treefruit.

I sodded my back yard 3 years ago with RTF. It has not held up well, especially in the higher traffic areas where it is completely dead. Any suggestions?

kelly.kopp@usu.edu (Kelly Kopp) — Thu, 11 Oct 2007 00:00:00 MST

I'm assuming that by RTF you mean rhizomatous tall fescue? In any case, I would have expected a tall fescue turf to hold up fairly well. It can be quite traffic tolerant. Before giving up on it completely, I would make sure that your irrigation and fertilization schedules are adequate. I'm attaching a bulletin with additional information on that. For the areas that are a problem, I would recommend overseeding with Kentucky bluegrass. It will blend in well and should help with traffic tolerance.