Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
What do I do about squash bugs?
Rate This FAQ
Squash bugs are very difficult to control. Insecticides are not very effective, but if insecticides are used they work best against the very young nymphs.
* If you plan to use insecticides, sprays should be applied when small nymphs are present, which generally occurs early in the season.
* Before spraying, check plants carefully to make certain that small nymphs are present. Squash bugs hide on the underside of leaves or down near the base of the plant.
* Nonchemical methods of control are usually as effective as insecticides. Serious attack by squash bugs can be avoided by planting sensitive varieties early so harvest is complete by early August.
* Once harvest is complete, remove the squash plants from garden. Plants left in the garden allow the bugs to build up to higher numbers, which will lead to greater problems the following year.
* Plant varieties of squash that are less sensitive to the bugs. Zucchini seems to be the variety most sensitive to attack by squash bugs. Other summer varieties and most winter varieties seem better able to tolerate feeding by squash bugs.
* Squash bugs are active during the day. At night the bugs hide under boards or other objects. This behavior can be used against them in small scale plantings such as gardens. Place boards near the plants (between rows or around the garden edge) and early every morning turn them over and squish all the bugs you find.
* Squash bugs also seek out sites like wood piles or sheds to spend the winter. Large numbers of bugs overwintering in these sites can lead to high numbers of bugs in your garden the following year.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I planted six Euonymus alatus compacta (burning bush) two years ago. The have not done well. They leaf beautifully in the spring, and then, regardless how much water I give them, the leaves turn brown around the edges and they look like they are dying. The next spring, I start all over again. Any suggestions?
- I have had some raspberry plants in an area near my house (6' x 12') for over ten years and only in the spring do I try to gently loosen the soil with a gardening fork. I have not added anything other than some fruit oriented fertilizer or Miracle Grow in that time. Half of the section usually produces berries the size of the tip of your little finger and some grow as big as the tip of your thumb. The others are small and crumbly,which is okey of jam but not for visuals or overall production. I read that crumbliness is due to ovary infertility. How do I overcome that? Should I also be doing some thinning? Early this last spring I cut the canes to about three feet high but many of them are now close to eight feet long. What is the best way to deal with excess growth?
- I have heard that black walnut sawdust should not be used in composting. People have told me it is poisonous to other plants. Is that true. I have several bushels of sawdust and would hate to send it to the land fill, but don't want to poison my garden either.
- I would like to plant red seedless grapes. What time of the year and what variety work in Utah.
- What are some good strawberry varieties to grow in our area? I would like both june-bearing and ever-bearing
- I recently moved here from western Oregon, where they grew wonderful blueberries. Is it possible to grow blueberries here in Utah, Salt Lake County specifically? I've noticed that blueberries are not sold at the farmers' markets, and so far I haven't seen any blueberry bushes being sold in nurseries.
- I am growing corn in a large garden box. My corn stalks are now five feet tall with several leaves, but none have any ears visible yet. When are ears supposed to be evident on a corn stalk?
- I have a climbing rose that I love and would like to take a cutting and start a new plant. What is the best way to do that?