Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
What is the secret to getting carrots to germinate?
Rate This FAQ
Q. What is the secret to getting carrots to germinate? It seems that in keeping them wet, I wash away the thin layer of soil over them, no matter how fine the spray. Also, can they be grown in a wide row?
A. Yes, carrot stand establishment can be a problem and getting adequate plant stands is difficult. The difficulty is that carrots are slow to germinate and often take from 10-14 days to get the seed root to show. It then takes another week to get the seed leaves to emerge. This slow germination requires different planting methods to ensure that stands of adequate number are achieved. If the seed is not stored properly, germination is reduced. Start with good seed, a well prepared seedbed and try not to seed too heavily.
Your approach of trying to keep the seeds moist means lots of time and effort spent in the garden. Here is a better approach:
* Prepare your planting area by sowing your seeds on the surface of the soil. Moisten the area and then cover the soil surface with burlap bags, an old piece of carpet, old pieces of board or plywood or any other material. You want to have a moist soil surface that doesn't dry out.
* After a few days, periodically check to see if the seed is germinating. Once you see the seed leaves you can remove the covers. However, don't take the covers off completely but use them to shield the plants from the sun for a few days. Seedlings grown this way are more tender and need to be hardened off a little.
* You can use these methods on rows or wide beds. I grow my carrots on beds because they take up less space and are easier to care for throughout the season. Once up and established, you can thin them out a bit.
* As you get used to this method, you will have to refine your seeding practice since most gardeners over-seed carrots just to get a few to emerge.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- when should I plaint string beans
- Should I cut back my perennials for winter? High Country Gardens says to wait until early-mid spring, but that is contrary to what I have been doing. It is true that I suffer some loss each spring.
- I have some shrubs that have been dying off in a wierd manner. Just sections at a time will completly die in a matter of a day or so, not even time to try and treat it. There are no outward signs of bugs and the rest of the shrub will be perfectly healthy. It has done this to more than one of my shrubs and also done this to more than one kind of shrub. It started last summer where I lost part of a couple and one hole shrub. I thought I had it taken care of by the end of the summer but when I mowed last week for the first time I noticed I have almost totaly lost another and there are spots on some others. The plants have been here for as many as 10 years or so and are very well taken care of. The only thing I can think of is about 3 years ago I put new plastic down and new bark, could the new plastic cause this.
- Our neighborhood has a group that meets once a month and learns about a topic of interest. In March we are planning on learning about gardening. My question is do you have volunteers who would be willing to come out and teach us about the basics of gardening(soil prep., planting times, pest control, etc.)?
- I have a dogwood shrub that did wonderfully well in the spring and is now slowly dying. I do deep watering once every two weeks and that seems to help but not enough. Any recommendations? It gets full sun most of the day.
- Last year I had a problem in the fall with my tomatoes cracking. I have heard that it is because of uneven watering conditions. I have also been told to plant tomatoes that are less apt to crack. Can you recommend a variety that is less likely to crack? Thanks.
- What causes plants to look dirty and lose their green color during the heat of the summer? One culprit is spider mites.
- Should I rotate my vegetable crops?