Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
What are the best cures for fungus type lawn diseases. We've tried infrequent deeper watering, which makes it worse, higher mowing in the hotter months, airation shoes, and everthing else suggested. We know we have clay under the topsoil.
Rate This FAQ
The best "cure" for fungus in turfgrass is prevention. By eliminating fungus's preferred habitat, you will eliminate the disease. All of the suggested cultural practices you mention (infrequent and deeper watering, aeration, and raising the mower deck in summer) are good practices. But there is one critical element you did not mention - thatch.
Thatch is the spongy layer of dead and dying leaf and root tissue layered on top of the soil but beneath the grass blades. If this layer is thicker than one-half inch, it may be allowing fungus to stay protected.
Diagnose your thatch problem by digging out a cross-section slice of lawn. Measure the distance between true soil and growing grass blades. If it is as thick as three-quarter inch, you have a problem.
To decrease thatch, core aerate twice annually. Be sure that the lawn is aerated very well - run the aerator over the same area twice (in two different directions, just as you would fertilize with a drop-spreader). You needn't remove the cores. Aerate in spring and again in late summer or fall.
Are you cycling your irrigation? If you have clay soil under topsoil, irrigate as if the entire soil profile was clay. This assures good water percolation through the root zone.
For more information about Basic Turfgrass Care, see the USU Extension publication with that title at http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG_517.pdf
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I have a very large, beautiful Cottonwood tree on my property, that is near the property line with my neighbor. She wants to put in a new fence, because the tree has been pushing up the posts for her old fence. The fencing company has said that they can put in a new fence, but they will have to "shave off" a bit of the tree trunk and possibly some of the root near the surface of the ground. I am worried that something like that could lead to the tree getting sick or dying. I want to keep peace among neighbors, but it would be a disaster and very expensive to lose the tree because of something likethis. Can you please tell me if a Cottonwood tree is hardy enough to withstand such a "shaving" procedure?
- How do I know when to pick my fruit?
- There are yellow jackets in my yard, how do I control them?
- How and when can I transplant small, 6-12 inch and medium, 5 ft joshua trees? The latter is more important at this point since it would be a shame to lose it.
- How invasive are globe willows? Also, what is the distance they should be from the septic system and water lines, etc?
- What herbicide/killer do we use to eradicate "salt cedar" & cheat grass??
- I have raspberry plants that have grown to where they will be bearing this summer. And wouldn't you know it, we are moving. I want to dig them up just before we move, say in middle to late February. Can I put them in the same type of packaging they came in when purchased and then plant them in the spring when the ground thaws. Will they still bear fruit this year?
- My sycamore tree has brown-reddish spots along the leaf veins. What is it?