Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I live in South Jordan. 4 1/2 years ago I started watering my yard with gray water (irrigation) due to the cost of water. Since that time I have lost 6 red twig dogwoods, 7 blue arctic willows,3 spireas, a pine tree and a Japanese maple. Everything else does not look good (other trees, bushes and perennials). In the spring it all starts out green but by June everything has brown edges on yellowing leaves and the trees have several dead branches. Could the gray water be the culprit? Everything was at least 6 years old, lush, and healthy until I changed my water. I am afraid I will lose everything else this summer if I don't find a cure for this. I could you use some answers. Thank you.
Rate This FAQ
I think you're right; water is probably the culprit. When water quality is poor, it's especially important to irrigate properly. Otherwise you may have salts accumulating in the top layers of soil, right where your plants roots live.
To start with, send in a soil sample for testing. Learn how at www.usual.usu.edu
Also, review proper irrigation techniques for trees and shrubs by reading USU Extension's publication "Efficient Irrigation of Trees and Shrubs", at http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG-523.pdf
You may want to have your irrigation water tested for its quality. You can send a sample to the USU Analytical Labs (same place as the soil test). Again, instructions and forms for the test are avaialable at www.usual.usu.edu
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- When is the best time time to water my lawn? I've heard it's better in the evening because it gives time to soak in and I've heard morning because if you do it at night the lawn will get moldy. Thanks.
- I am an architect, working with a client who wants to hydroseed a 2.5 acre parcel for use as a softball field. The area is currently planted in alfalfa. There will be some regrading (both cut and fill) of the field that will be required. The client would still like to hydroseed this year, likely near the end of September. Do we need to call for the alfalfa to be treated with a herbicide? If so, what is the process, and what herbicide should be used? Is there a waiting period between application of the herbicide and the hydroseeding? Must the herbicide be applied to the above-grade plants, or can the site first be cleared, then the herbicide applied to the gound and roots?
- My front yard has large patches of dead grass. Originally I thought it might be a result of grubs, but dug down and didn't see any larvae or grub worms. The condition is worsening and now I've noticed pencil-eraser size holes throughout the dry areas. Do you know what this is and how to prevent or stop it?
- What herbicide/killer do we use to eradicate "salt cedar" & cheat grass??
- I live in Riverton, and have areas in my lawn that are brown and sparse. I planted the lawn from seed, a Kentucky bluegrass blend I bought from a nursery, at least 10 years ago. It grows well in cooler weather, but by summer it looks dead in patches and is stiff, not soft lawn for the kids to play on. I would like to put down some patch seed, but don't know what kind to use and how is the best way to plant. Do I have to take out the old lawn or can I just sprinkle it on and cover with a little bit of soil. Also, is there any way to control the wide leaf weed that grows throughout my lawn as well as the entire neighborhood?
- When is the best time of year to reseed my lawn? The weeds and spurge are out of control. Should I rototill the lawn to remove all the weeds first?
- How do I know when to pick my fruit?
- I have tall thin Junipers in my backyard. They resemble a Hollywood Juniper but I am not sure of their species. They are 25 years old and have begun to look like they are dying, the needles are turning brown and falling off. Is there anything I can do to save them?