Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I would like to plant a bunch of trees (hundreds) on a piece of dry farm high on a bench in Petersboro. The soil is clayish and watering is limited to hauling only. Can you recommend a tree or two that would be easy to start and would be fairly maintenance free once established. Any thing that will survive.
Rate This FAQ
For the trees to survive, you have a challenge. The best time to plant would be in late fall or early spring to take advantage of natural precipitation. Native trees such as juniper would be among the easiest to have survive. However, no matter what is planted, it will take up to two years for the trees to fully establish. This means you watering periodically for up to two years.
What you plant to use the property for also dictates what you will want to plant. Native junipers would mimic what is already growing locally in wild lands. However, if you are willing to take care of them, trees such as hackberry and bur oak are very drought tolerant once established. Even though they are commonly used, cottonwoods and poplars should be used with caution. Over time, they can cause more problems than they are worth.
I would also consider soil tests. They can be performed by the USU soil lab relatively inexpensively.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I have a pine tree that is dying. It has two or three branches that are dead or dying. Is there any treatment that I can use to stop this?
- I have an braeburn apple tree that we got from a local nursery last fall. the leaves were slightly curled after we planted it and i thought that it was just transplant shock but this spring it has not cleared up. All the leaves are curled up on the edges.
- We have creeping mountain sorrel in our lawn and can't get rid of it. Do you have any recommendations on products that might kill it, or any other ways to get rid of it?
- I have a Blierana flowering plum tree that failed to leaf out fully this spring. I looked at it yesterday and found at least fifty places on the branches where a snake-like resin/sap has been pushed out of the branch. Is this a borer doing damage? What do I do? Should I remove the tree to prevent further damage to surrounding trees? Is there something I can spray? Can I ever plant a tree in this same spot? I have trees all along my fence line in a row and really need a replacement tree if this one is going to die.
- The grass in certain areas of my lawn is not growing well. I've been told it may be due to the fact that they're adjacent to pine trees, and that fallen pine needles have caused locally acidic conditions. It is suggested that I apply Gypsum in these areas. Are the diagnoses and suggestions plausible ?
- Chickens in garden before planting? Good idea? And get them on the lawn to eat any weeds?
- Your answer about watering wasn't specific enough for me. My tomatoes have always cracked and it wasn't until last year that I got the vague answer about uneven watering. Now I'm beginning to think that my gallon a day watering of my one little plant was too much. I also have a drip system that waters three times a week just under the soil at the base of the plant. Should I stop being a helicopter mom and leave it just to the drip system? My plant is a foot high, been in the ground with lots of organic material and has a few small tomatoes. Please tell me how much and how often to water.
- What can I put in my soil to loosen it up so it does not turn into clumps of heavy mud when wet?