Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I would like to plant a bunch of trees (hundreds) on a piece of dry farm high on a bench in Petersboro. The soil is clayish and watering is limited to hauling only. Can you recommend a tree or two that would be easy to start and would be fairly maintenance free once established. Any thing that will survive.
Rate This FAQ
For the trees to survive, you have a challenge. The best time to plant would be in late fall or early spring to take advantage of natural precipitation. Native trees such as juniper would be among the easiest to have survive. However, no matter what is planted, it will take up to two years for the trees to fully establish. This means you watering periodically for up to two years.
What you plant to use the property for also dictates what you will want to plant. Native junipers would mimic what is already growing locally in wild lands. However, if you are willing to take care of them, trees such as hackberry and bur oak are very drought tolerant once established. Even though they are commonly used, cottonwoods and poplars should be used with caution. Over time, they can cause more problems than they are worth.
I would also consider soil tests. They can be performed by the USU soil lab relatively inexpensively.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- My Black Walnut tree is leaking sap terribly. What's wrong?
- Now that the snow has melted off our lawn, we notice there are winding "trails" through the grass. One of the trails goes from a patch of vince major ground cover, across the grass to another patch of vinca major ground cover. It looks like something has pushed up the black plastic lawn edging enough to crawl underneath. There is no soil excavation on top of the lawn; only tunnels through the grass. We've never had moles or voles before that I know of so I don't know what habits they have. Do you think it could be a mouse or maybe a mole or vole? What's the best way to get ride of it?
- I recently (spring 2009) planted a globe willow in Herriman, altitude 5300. I was told by an arborist that it should be okay as there are other successful globes in the foothills of the Quirrahs. It has now got leaves (May 2009) but they are getting yellow towards the mid to top and I suspect iron chlorosis. This is yellow, not the beautiful light green as usual.It gets good water and sun. It was planted with mixture of native clay, potting/planting soil and mulch including "mike" a good microorganism suggested for good plant rooting. Should I give it a dose of iron or let it be? Or us this normal? Help!
- How can I control earwigs in my home and garden?
- I am considering a weeping willow for my back yard. I have not heard good things about them being planted in Salt Lake. What is your opinion, and would I be better going with a different species or will a willow be fine?
- I have many Chanticleer pear's in my yard. Each year they swarm with Wasps during the day. There are not any nests in them. Is there anything I can do or spray to remove them? They have been swarming many of my Quakies as well. I have read online that it could be from aphids on the trees and the Wasps go after the sugary substance the aphids leave behind. I have noticed on my Quakies that there are small holes on some leaves which might mean aphids, but on the Chanticleer's there are not any holes on the leaves so I don't think aphids would be on those. Please help the wasps are out of control on these trees.
- My husband plants tomato and peppers etc each year. He plants directly under the eves of the house and the water runs off the roof with each rain storm or in the spring run off. I believe this is not good for the soil he is planting the garden in since we have an asphalt roof and I can see the debris from the roof on the soil. He says not a problem, I still have a hard time eating them without thinking I am getting some sort of poison in our systems. Suggestions?
- I live in Sanpete county. The winters are very cold and I frequently have winter kill of my roses, and perennials, especially on the South side of the house. Could you give me a basic "Yard & Home Winterization" list of things to do to prevent this and other winter issues?