Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I would like to plant a bunch of trees (hundreds) on a piece of dry farm high on a bench in Petersboro. The soil is clayish and watering is limited to hauling only. Can you recommend a tree or two that would be easy to start and would be fairly maintenance free once established. Any thing that will survive.
Rate This FAQ
For the trees to survive, you have a challenge. The best time to plant would be in late fall or early spring to take advantage of natural precipitation. Native trees such as juniper would be among the easiest to have survive. However, no matter what is planted, it will take up to two years for the trees to fully establish. This means you watering periodically for up to two years.
What you plant to use the property for also dictates what you will want to plant. Native junipers would mimic what is already growing locally in wild lands. However, if you are willing to take care of them, trees such as hackberry and bur oak are very drought tolerant once established. Even though they are commonly used, cottonwoods and poplars should be used with caution. Over time, they can cause more problems than they are worth.
I would also consider soil tests. They can be performed by the USU soil lab relatively inexpensively.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I have several large beds in which I would like to plant shrubs, perennials, and some annuals. I am wondering what, if any, weed barrier I should use for these beds. I have heard different opinions advocating weed fabric, newspaper, or no weed barrier at all other than a layer of bark/mulch. If a thick layer of mulch alone is virtually as effective as weed barrier, I would rather avoid the expense and hassle of laying the barrier. Which is the best option?
- Last May, I planted my living Christmas tree (5 foot Black Hills Spruce) after wintering it in a sheltered area with mulch. It was inside for only 3 days. It grew well all summer with little green buds until the first hard frost and then it died all at once. What happened? Was it the tree or the location? I live at 7,000 ft; the planting location is a little bit rocky and I don't want it to happen again. Thanks!!!
- Just moved to where we have a very large backyard. I want to plant a large variety of fruit trees, but I don't know what will grow well in this climate. What types of fruit grow best in the Salt Lake area? (eg peaches, apples, nectarines....?) And which kind of each fruit would you suggest? I'm also new to this, so where should I go to buy the trees and find info on how to grow them correctly?
- Hi, I have a lot of two year hybrid poplars that we've planted for a wind break and the leaves near the trunks are beginning to turn yellow. I've read that this can be because of lack of water or too much water or not enough fertilizer. It's July and we water them every day because of the 90+ temps. Any suggestions?
- Now that it's August, how often should we water our lawn (rock/clay soil); for how long; when (late pm early am); and when do we NOT water? My husband waters every day separate areas (front one day; back the next = X3/week), for approx. 35 min. each station. I say this is TOO much water(ing).
- I have beautiful hosta and fern plants growing outside. How do I protect them so they will survive the winter? Do I need to dig them up and bring them inside?
- I have space for 2 fruit trees in my yard. I would like to plant an apple (red delicious) and a peach (red Haven). Are these the best varieties for my area, and how about cross pollination. My neighbor across the fence has a peach tree and I have a crab apple near by.
- Where can I buy a kumquat tree in Utah? Will it survive living outdoors in SLC?