Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I have some fruit trees in a lawn area that I have been fertilizing with ammonium sulfate, but needed to change to a weed & feed. Is the fruit still safe to eat?
Rate This FAQ
The fruit should be safe to eat as long as you take extra care when applying the weed and feed fertilizer to make sure none of the fertilizer come into contact with either the leaves or the fruit that is on the tree. I have included a link that has some more information regarding the selection and use of fertilizers.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- Our neighbors have recently cut down a Globe Willow and A Lombardy Poplar. They did not remove the trunks and the roots are not popping up in our lawn. Is there anyway for us to stop this from happening? These people are not the fastest movers and I have a feeling that the trunks will never be fully removed. These roots have already started to push up our concrete and have left runners down our lawn.
- Is there another alternative to getting rid of ferry ring in a lawn than by removing the soil?
- Many of my potatoes this year have splits in them, but then the skins have grown over the splits, leaving a very uneven skin. Is there something I have done wrong? We have watered about every 4-5 days.
- I have just purchased two plum trees Santa Rosa and Satsuma. I've read that they have higher water requirements than peach trees. I have two locations I am considering for these tress. I live very close to Utah Lake. The water table is very high here and the winters seem somewhat more mild because of the lower elevation and the proximity of the lake. Both locations are on the east side of the house. One is about 7 feet above the water level in our upper yard the other is 6 feet below in in the lower yard. The soil in the upper yard is mostly clean fill with lots of clay and rock but would provide shelter from harsh afternoon sun and wind. The soil in the lower yard is comprised highly of organic material. I would build a mound so that the tree would be elevated from direct contact with the water but there would still be water more easily available to the root system than in the upper yard. It would not receive shelter from the afternoon sun until much later in the afternoon/evening and would not receive much if any shelter from the wind. The main advantage in the second location is the nice soil and the proximity to moisture. I have some grapes that have done well in the more wet less sheltered second location.
- I have small white worms in my turnips and radishes. How do I deal with this problem?
- I have an apricot tree in my backyard that is loaded with apricots. We have not sprayed the tree with anything, but I would like to use what I can of the fruit that is not 'buggy'. The apricots have red/brown spots on the skin, my research tells me it might be a fungus. Would the fruit be safe to eat if it was cooked and then canned? Also, I would like to transplant some of my fathers raspberry bushes, when is the best time to do that?
- I recently (spring 2009) planted a globe willow in Herriman, altitude 5300. I was told by an arborist that it should be okay as there are other successful globes in the foothills of the Quirrahs. It has now got leaves (May 2009) but they are getting yellow towards the mid to top and I suspect iron chlorosis. This is yellow, not the beautiful light green as usual.It gets good water and sun. It was planted with mixture of native clay, potting/planting soil and mulch including "mike" a good microorganism suggested for good plant rooting. Should I give it a dose of iron or let it be? Or us this normal? Help!
- JUST SENT A EMAIL, I GUESS I CAN'T ATTACH A PICTURE OF THE TREE I'M AKING ABOUT, HOW CAN I SEND YOU A PICTURE OF IT? I DON'T KNOW WHAT KIND OF TREES THESE ARE.