Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I have successfully grown summer squash for many years, but this year the newer leaves on the plants (sunburst hybrid) are wilting and dying, despite (or because of?) the cool wet June weather we are experiencing. The more mature leaves seem to be okay. I cut one of the leaves off at its base and didn't see any evidence of insect infestation in the stem or on the leaf. The base of the plant also appears to be free of insect infestation. Do you know what might be causing the problem, can it be treated, or do I need to pull up the plants, and if so, can I put new plants in the same location (the rest of the garden space is already filled)?
Rate This FAQ
I think the problem your summer squash is having is just a reaction to all of the rain and cooler temperatures that we have had. Unless your plant is completely dead I would not pull it, just remove all of the yellow leaves. When the weather warms up the plants should start looking better and growing faster. If you do lose plants it is fine to plant new ones in the same space. Below I have included a link about growing summer squash that has more information.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- Last fall I bought a daffodil mixture. They bloomed great this spring, but in October they have all started to come up. What's going on?
- I have a huge weeping willow in my front yard. My next door neighbor swears the root system has invaded her septic line. She had a globe will previously taken out that was about 10 feet from her main water line while my weeper is about 30. My own line is about 15 feet from the weeper. Is there any validation to her statement?
- I have a flame amur maple approx 5 feet high and has been planted since spring of '07. It has turned a very pale yellow color and has several branches where the leaves look like they have been burned. It is getting sufficient water. I've noticed that other flame maples stay green and I have read that it should. I don't know what is wrong with it. Help. It also did this last summer. I have applied some iron and it did green it up a little more but not much.
- How can you tell if a fertilizer is a "slow-release"? What are the best NPK ratios for this area?
- Your answer about watering wasn't specific enough for me. My tomatoes have always cracked and it wasn't until last year that I got the vague answer about uneven watering. Now I'm beginning to think that my gallon a day watering of my one little plant was too much. I also have a drip system that waters three times a week just under the soil at the base of the plant. Should I stop being a helicopter mom and leave it just to the drip system? My plant is a foot high, been in the ground with lots of organic material and has a few small tomatoes. Please tell me how much and how often to water.
- I am preparing to sod my front yard in the next couple of weeks. I am looking for a grass that is hardy, drought and weed resistant. I also have a dog that can be somewhat hard on grass. I looked into Zoysia grass, but determined it wasn't a really great grass for this climate. What would you suggest, and where might I find it in Northern Utah?
- I have a mature elm in my backyard that was probably planted when the house was built in the 70's. We bought it 3 years ago and I have noticed that something is eating away at the bark. There is a reddish-brown streak (almost like what you would see in a human that has blood poisoning) that runs up the bark. I cut off one of the lower limbs that the problem had progressed to. The bark is very "mushy" and looks decayed. Chunks of bark fall off at the affected areas. I cannot see any bugs that may be causing this but I suspect that is the cause. This tree has 2 main branches that extend from the bottom and this is where the main damage seems to be. I am concerned that the tree could "split" at this point if it becomes weakened. I need to know the cause and treatment.
- What can I put in my soil to loosen it up so it does not turn into clumps of heavy mud when wet?