Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I planted some fruit trees fall 2009 and am noticing tons of fruit on them already in this first year. I've heard I should pick them all and wait until the second year to let them mature. Is this right?
Rate This FAQ
It would be better for you to remove the fruit from your trees this year. Right now your goal is to establish strong, healthy scaffold branches for your trees. If you allow the fruit to remain on your new trees the weight of the developing fruit will interfere with that branch development.
We have a couple of useful resources that are available online. I recommend that you visit utahpests.usu.edu/ipm to sign up for free email advisories for fruit trees. You will also find lots of great information in the Utah Home Orchard Pest Management Guide, available at htt://extension.usu.edu. Click on "publications" and then type the name into the search bar and it should show up at or near the top of the search results.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I would like to plant a bunch of trees (hundreds) on a piece of dry farm high on a bench in Petersboro. The soil is clayish and watering is limited to hauling only. Can you recommend a tree or two that would be easy to start and would be fairly maintenance free once established. Any thing that will survive.
- I have successfully grown summer squash for many years, but this year the newer leaves on the plants (sunburst hybrid) are wilting and dying, despite (or because of?) the cool wet June weather we are experiencing. The more mature leaves seem to be okay. I cut one of the leaves off at its base and didn't see any evidence of insect infestation in the stem or on the leaf. The base of the plant also appears to be free of insect infestation. Do you know what might be causing the problem, can it be treated, or do I need to pull up the plants, and if so, can I put new plants in the same location (the rest of the garden space is already filled)?
- I have a huge weeping willow in my front yard. My next door neighbor swears the root system has invaded her septic line. She had a globe will previously taken out that was about 10 feet from her main water line while my weeper is about 30. My own line is about 15 feet from the weeper. Is there any validation to her statement?
- Our blue spruce has been around for 30 years. but the new buds have no needles and they are brown. Even up the center of the tree is brown with no needles. My father has put a bed of rocks around it and I am not sure if it is affecting it. We also had two crimson maples and they lost all of their leaves half way through summer. This year there are no leaves at all. Do the trees have disease?
- I have a Bartlett pear tree that has black spots on the leaves and holes chewed on some leaves and a few curled up leaves. Could you tell me what to spray for these problems?
- I planted four Patmore Green Ash trees in my yard and they all have circular hole bite marks on all the leaves. I cannot see any insects on them. Do you have any idea what might be eating the leaves and how I can get rid of them?
- Our house is in Murray between the Jordan River and the North Jordan Canal. It faces east, so our backyard in on the west side. We have a steep slope of clay soil. We need some trees which would provide shade and privacy. We have tried river birch, blue spruce and a pine. All have died. We have a deep water system for the trees. The needles on our spruce and pine turned brown and dropped off. What kind of trees could we plant under these circumstances?
- Last May, I planted my living Christmas tree (5 foot Black Hills Spruce) after wintering it in a sheltered area with mulch. It was inside for only 3 days. It grew well all summer with little green buds until the first hard frost and then it died all at once. What happened? Was it the tree or the location? I live at 7,000 ft; the planting location is a little bit rocky and I don't want it to happen again. Thanks!!!