Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I have just purchased two plum trees Santa Rosa and Satsuma. I've read that they have higher water requirements than peach trees. I have two locations I am considering for these tress. I live very close to Utah Lake. The water table is very high here and the winters seem somewhat more mild because of the lower elevation and the proximity of the lake. Both locations are on the east side of the house. One is about 7 feet above the water level in our upper yard the other is 6 feet below in in the lower yard. The soil in the upper yard is mostly clean fill with lots of clay and rock but would provide shelter from harsh afternoon sun and wind. The soil in the lower yard is comprised highly of organic material. I would build a mound so that the tree would be elevated from direct contact with the water but there would still be water more easily available to the root system than in the upper yard. It would not receive shelter from the afternoon sun until much later in the afternoon/evening and would not receive much if any shelter from the wind. The main advantage in the second location is the nice soil and the proximity to moisture. I have some grapes that have done well in the more wet less sheltered second location.
Rate This FAQ
I have both Satsuma and Santa Rose plums and both do well in full, all-day sun and no protection from the wind, (I live in American Fork) so don't worry about them getting too much sun. I would worry more about your site that is heavy clay. Clay retains the water and you could see chlorosis in the leaves if it gets too much water. If you have further questions, you can call us at 851-8462.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I have a Bartlett pear tree that has black spots on the leaves and holes chewed on some leaves and a few curled up leaves. Could you tell me what to spray for these problems?
- I have several large beds in which I would like to plant shrubs, perennials, and some annuals. I am wondering what, if any, weed barrier I should use for these beds. I have heard different opinions advocating weed fabric, newspaper, or no weed barrier at all other than a layer of bark/mulch. If a thick layer of mulch alone is virtually as effective as weed barrier, I would rather avoid the expense and hassle of laying the barrier. Which is the best option?
- I am buying a home, and have no idea how to take card of a yard and plant a garden/flowers. Do you have or know of any classes to teach these things?
- I have several burning bushes and every year they start out great in the spring but later spring the leaves turn yellow, I have been adding iron to the soil around them and it seems to help a bit but it still happens every year. Could it be something else?
- We tilled our garden and planted peas and lettuce about three weeks ago. Nothing has come up yet. We were talking to our neighbor yesterday, and he told us that about 30-40 years ago, in a fit of vexation, the former owner spread an industrial strength soil sterilizing chemical on the area in which we planted our garden. He further explained that weeds have only started to grow in that area in the past 5-10 years. This information has caused my wife to give up on trying to cultivate this area. Should we give up? What can we do to amend the soil in this area?
- Your answer about watering wasn't specific enough for me. My tomatoes have always cracked and it wasn't until last year that I got the vague answer about uneven watering. Now I'm beginning to think that my gallon a day watering of my one little plant was too much. I also have a drip system that waters three times a week just under the soil at the base of the plant. Should I stop being a helicopter mom and leave it just to the drip system? My plant is a foot high, been in the ground with lots of organic material and has a few small tomatoes. Please tell me how much and how often to water.
- I have Morning glory though out my established lawn, how can I get rid of it?
- Last year in June or July pesticide (Ortho Home) was used all over my yard...and in my garden. I didn't realize the dangers of pesticide, until after it had been sprayed/poured all over. Is it safe to plant a vegetable garden this year, or is the pesticide still present in my garden? Is there a way to get my soil tested to make sure it's safe? Thanks, Brandi