Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I have several large beds in which I would like to plant shrubs, perennials, and some annuals. I am wondering what, if any, weed barrier I should use for these beds. I have heard different opinions advocating weed fabric, newspaper, or no weed barrier at all other than a layer of bark/mulch. If a thick layer of mulch alone is virtually as effective as weed barrier, I would rather avoid the expense and hassle of laying the barrier. Which is the best option?
Rate This FAQ
In many instances including when you are going to be planting annuals in a landscape bed, fabric or plastic weed barriers are not a good option. A hole must be cut for every plant. This creates an opportunity for weeds to penetrate the barrier. Where annuals are planted can vary from year to year and more holes would have to be made to plant in these new spots. Fabric barriers are best used in beds where shrubs and trees are planted only. This minimizes the amount of holes that will be cut.
Two to three inches of mulch will eliminate much weeding and conserve water, but it is not a perfect solution either. You still may need to use a pre-emergent weed killer such a treflan, surflan, barricade or gallery to eliminate seeds that are are still in the soil or tha tshow up after the fact due to wind and/or irrigation. You also may occasionally may need to spot treat weeds with an herbicide.
Some keys to keeping the weeds at a minimum is to apply the appropriate amount of mulch. Keep in mind that too much is also detremental to landscape plants. Additionally, disturb the bed as little as possible once it is planted when you apply a pre-emergent weed killer. If possible, only water desirable landscape plants and not the entire bed. Most weeds need water to grow.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I have a flame amur maple approx 5 feet high and has been planted since spring of '07. It has turned a very pale yellow color and has several branches where the leaves look like they have been burned. It is getting sufficient water. I've noticed that other flame maples stay green and I have read that it should. I don't know what is wrong with it. Help. It also did this last summer. I have applied some iron and it did green it up a little more but not much.
- Is it good to cut the lawn shorter right before winter? I normally cut my lawn quite high, but it seems like I heard that it is good to cut it shorter for winter. Thanks.
- I have recently had topsoil brought in to grow a garden and my vegetable plants are wilting as if something in the soil is affecting them how do I get my soil tested to correct this?
- Our home was built in 1998 and we are the second owners. The first owners landscaped the yard, but didn't consider that the trees, shrubs, etc. would grow. We have trees that were planted too close to the sidewalk and shrubs that were planted too close to the house. They are beautiful, but too close. We also have a large cottonwood tree in the backyard that provides good shade, but its root are now pushing above the ground. I think I know the answer, but is there a good way to redo the landscaping without removing all of the good features at once?
- Please suggest some good bush rose varieties (not reds)- 3-4'high and 4' wide for a border planting in front of my home. I live in Holladay. Also, will a variegated dogwood tree grow well here if not in full sun?
- What kind of Strawberry plant do you recommend? I remember Crocket's Victory Garden recommending an ever bearing one for the New England area.
- My greenhouse made of visqueen does not allow the sun to hit soil, causing the growth of algae on the surface. What must be done?
- My mugo pine is turning an orange color and the needles are dropping. What caused this and can it be saved?