Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
We have 2 honeylocust trees in our yard. I would guess "Imperial honeylocust". They seem to be about 15 years old or so. They are spaced about 20 feet apart. This spring one has leafed out and the other is still not budding or leafing out. Over the winter, the one that is not budding turned bright red on the trunk, which we have never seen before. The tree is getting a very few buds and leaves on some main branches (like suckers) but no buds or leaves on the outer limbs. Is there anything we can do to save this tree?
Rate This FAQ
The tree that is not leafing out is difficult on email to diagnose the problems. Can't save the tree without a good diagnosis. If you have photos you can send me, that may help me diagnose the problem. Trees often take several years after and injury or onset of a disease to fully manifest problems such as what you are describing. Problems like root damage due to construction in the root zone is a common problem for trees, or even compaction around the roots, such as playground sets, or picnic table placed under the tree compacts the soil so much, oxygen to the roots is unavailable and slowly tree dies off.
Send photos or else hire a International Society of Arboriculture Certified Arborist, click on http://www.utahurbanforest.org/ and there is a list of certified arborists in Utah, you can contact.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I have a large mature cherry tree that over the past 3 weeks has had its leaves turn from green to yellow and now die off (July). I have not changed any watering patterns. The trunk "crotch" has debris, and small crawly wormy insects. How can I treat? Is it too late? It's a lovely tree, provides great shade and privacy.
- I recently (spring 2009) planted a globe willow in Herriman, altitude 5300. I was told by an arborist that it should be okay as there are other successful globes in the foothills of the Quirrahs. It has now got leaves (May 2009) but they are getting yellow towards the mid to top and I suspect iron chlorosis. This is yellow, not the beautiful light green as usual.It gets good water and sun. It was planted with mixture of native clay, potting/planting soil and mulch including "mike" a good microorganism suggested for good plant rooting. Should I give it a dose of iron or let it be? Or us this normal? Help!
- Do you have the names of companies or individuals who spray fruit trees in the spring and summer to prevent bugs and disease?
- We planted some scrub oak plants a few years ago that we got from a nursery. Although they come back every year they never get any bigger. They are still the same size as when we planted them. Do you have any suggestions on how to make it take off?
- Do you have a list of good varieties of produce producing plants to grow in this area? I am looking to plant fruit trees this fall and start a garden next year.
- How can you tell if a fertilizer is a "slow-release"? What are the best NPK ratios for this area?
- What is the cost for a soil test?
- We bought a home in East Millcreek w/out any trees in the front yard. We really like the look of the Sycamore tree (with the mottled bark), but don't know if that is the best choice. Is it possible to get one that doesn't bear fruit (itchy-bombs, as we called it as children)? What other trees would you suggest as a large shade tree? Once we decide on a tree, I was planning on checking with all our neighbors to see if they want to plant the same tree so that 20 years down the road, we have a beautiful street. So, I want to plant something that won't make my neighbors despise me down the road!