Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
When is the best time to spray a cherry tree for worms?
Rate This FAQ
The timing of your spray depends on the development of the fruit. We usually recommend starting applications at 1060 degree days after March 1 (base 41). However, the flies cannot penetrate the skin of the cherry to lay eggs until the cherry has developed a salmon-blush color. So use that guideline for when to start spraying. Check the fruits at the top of the tree and in the sunniest locations as these will color up first.
This excerpt came from last year (20080 advisory, go to http://utahpests.usu.edu/ipm/files/uploads/AdvisoryUpdates/Advisory08/Fruit-IPM-05-28-08.pdf to see photo of cherry fruit appearance for timing of spray.
The best thing to do is to check the USU Fruit Tree IPM(Integrated Pest Management) Advisories that are emailed weekly to subscribers, or you can check online.
To check advisories go to http://utahpests.usu.edu/ipm/htm/advisories/treefruit
To subscribe go to http://utahpests.usu.edu/ipm/htm/subscriptions
As of May 13th weekly advisory Degree Day accumulations, in Holladay is 600 and in West Valley is 644. Look at our advisory for total of 1060 or go by physical appearance of salmon blush of cherry fruit to spray.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I would like to build some grow boxes for vegetables. Do you have any recommendations what type of wood or other material should be used for a grow box?
- I think I have Johnsongrass invading my back lawn. I has sprayed the usual Crabgrass/lawn grassy weed killer on it and it is still taking over my entire lawn. What can I do?
- My newly sprouted green bean plants are getting small to medium holes in the leaves. Could this be from pests or the heavy rain in East Millcreek?
- Last May, I planted my living Christmas tree (5 foot Black Hills Spruce) after wintering it in a sheltered area with mulch. It was inside for only 3 days. It grew well all summer with little green buds until the first hard frost and then it died all at once. What happened? Was it the tree or the location? I live at 7,000 ft; the planting location is a little bit rocky and I don't want it to happen again. Thanks!!!
- Is Fall a good time to plant a new lawn? I am a 72 year old homeowner. My back yard (about 2000 sq feet) is barren except or weeds (which my daughter and grandchildren are busy removing).
- We want to grow aspen and scrub oak on our property. Can we transplant, if so how and when? Or do we need to grow from seeds? How often to water if we grow from seeds?
- I have a Bartlett pear tree that has black spots on the leaves and holes chewed on some leaves and a few curled up leaves. Could you tell me what to spray for these problems?
- I have just purchased two plum trees Santa Rosa and Satsuma. I've read that they have higher water requirements than peach trees. I have two locations I am considering for these tress. I live very close to Utah Lake. The water table is very high here and the winters seem somewhat more mild because of the lower elevation and the proximity of the lake. Both locations are on the east side of the house. One is about 7 feet above the water level in our upper yard the other is 6 feet below in in the lower yard. The soil in the upper yard is mostly clean fill with lots of clay and rock but would provide shelter from harsh afternoon sun and wind. The soil in the lower yard is comprised highly of organic material. I would build a mound so that the tree would be elevated from direct contact with the water but there would still be water more easily available to the root system than in the upper yard. It would not receive shelter from the afternoon sun until much later in the afternoon/evening and would not receive much if any shelter from the wind. The main advantage in the second location is the nice soil and the proximity to moisture. I have some grapes that have done well in the more wet less sheltered second location.