Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
When is the best time to spray a cherry tree for worms?
Rate This FAQ
The timing of your spray depends on the development of the fruit. We usually recommend starting applications at 1060 degree days after March 1 (base 41). However, the flies cannot penetrate the skin of the cherry to lay eggs until the cherry has developed a salmon-blush color. So use that guideline for when to start spraying. Check the fruits at the top of the tree and in the sunniest locations as these will color up first.
This excerpt came from last year (20080 advisory, go to http://utahpests.usu.edu/ipm/files/uploads/AdvisoryUpdates/Advisory08/Fruit-IPM-05-28-08.pdf to see photo of cherry fruit appearance for timing of spray.
The best thing to do is to check the USU Fruit Tree IPM(Integrated Pest Management) Advisories that are emailed weekly to subscribers, or you can check online.
To check advisories go to http://utahpests.usu.edu/ipm/htm/advisories/treefruit
To subscribe go to http://utahpests.usu.edu/ipm/htm/subscriptions
As of May 13th weekly advisory Degree Day accumulations, in Holladay is 600 and in West Valley is 644. Look at our advisory for total of 1060 or go by physical appearance of salmon blush of cherry fruit to spray.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- My bush beans have holes in some of the leaves. What is causing this? What can I do to fix it?
- I just recently moved into a home that has these terrible "soda straw" type weeds that I can't get rid of. They pop apart and look like tall drinking straws. I have sprayed them with multiple rounds of poison (extra strength!) and dug them out by hand 2 or three times. They are coming back stronger than ever. What should I do?
- I have a healthy looking aspen tree whose leaves turn brown and fall off in early September without ever turning colors. I live in Midway and Aspens do well here. Do you know the cause and can it be corrected?
- I had three Canadian Red Chokecherry (prunus virginiana L.) planted Oct 2007; 1 1/2" caliper, 13' tall. This spring, the leaves were a solid green; now they they are turning a purplish red. Is this normal?
- I just bought a house and the yard is a mess. We have multiple varieties of grasses and weeds, dry spots, dead spots and rodent damage. I am a staunch do-it-yourselfer but the number of different problems to attack is overwhelming. Where is the best place to get educated or to get started? If I take a bunch of digital pictures of the various problems and plant types is there someplace I can take them to get good advice? Tru Green also came by and said we have grubs, but all they did was LOOK at the grass. I can pull up the dirt myself, but I don't know what to look for.
- The grass in certain areas of my lawn is not growing well. I've been told it may be due to the fact that they're adjacent to pine trees, and that fallen pine needles have caused locally acidic conditions. It is suggested that I apply Gypsum in these areas. Are the diagnoses and suggestions plausible ?
- We live in a suburb near the mountains and have a lot of deer wandering through our neighborhood eating our flowers and vegetable gardens. They are not afraid of people and walk through our backyard any time of day. What can we spray on the garden plants to stop them from eating them?
- I have much vinca minor (dwarf periwinkle) planted about 20 years ago as ground cover in my yard. Some is in full sun, some is in part sun/part shade. Some small areas of the vinca (3-4 feet in diameter) in several places in the yard have begun the most recent two Springs looking yellow/pale green, not deep green like the rest of the gardens. Neither have they flowered. A couple of the small yellow/pale green areas e thinned, and some of the plants died. The veins in the leaves of the unhealthy plants are green, but the leaves are yellow/pale green. They have remained thus all summer. They don't turn brown and dry and die. I have treated with fertilizer and snail bait, but neither has had any effect on the unhealthy looking plants. Are these plants deficient in some nutrient? Healthy plants I planted in the bare areas had a hard time establishing but did eventually and have not paled. What should I do? I don't want the problem to spread. The periwinkle has added a great texture to the yard.