Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
In the vegetable fact sheets it make watering suggestions such as "water 1-2" per week" how much water is 1-2" per week? Also, Can I use blood meal for nitrogen to side dress tender plants?
Rate This FAQ
The most important thing about watering is getting enough water to the root zone, so that the soil is not saturated, leaving oxygen in the soil for root and plant growth. This 1-2" is adapted from overhead sprinklers heads that usually have an output measured in inches. Difficult to give watering recommendations in general because everyone has different irrigation systems, different soil types, different microclimates.
Perhaps this USU publication on irrigation may help. Click on http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/ENGR_BIE_WM-37.pdf
Best is using drip irrigation for vegetables, depending on your soils, getting enough water to root zones. Better to water less frequently and deeper. In sandy soils, you'll need to water more often whereas in heavier clay soils, not so often. With drip irrigation, you can usually water deeply and get by with one to two times a week, depending on air temperatures & wind.
Blood meal can be used, but can burn plants, better to use it sparingly when side dressing.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I have much vinca minor (dwarf periwinkle) planted about 20 years ago as ground cover in my yard. Some is in full sun, some is in part sun/part shade. Some small areas of the vinca (3-4 feet in diameter) in several places in the yard have begun the most recent two Springs looking yellow/pale green, not deep green like the rest of the gardens. Neither have they flowered. A couple of the small yellow/pale green areas e thinned, and some of the plants died. The veins in the leaves of the unhealthy plants are green, but the leaves are yellow/pale green. They have remained thus all summer. They don't turn brown and dry and die. I have treated with fertilizer and snail bait, but neither has had any effect on the unhealthy looking plants. Are these plants deficient in some nutrient? Healthy plants I planted in the bare areas had a hard time establishing but did eventually and have not paled. What should I do? I don't want the problem to spread. The periwinkle has added a great texture to the yard.
- The leaves on my grape plants have turned yellow. The veins are still green but the rest of the leaf is yellow. I added some iron about a week ago and have not noticed any change as yet. Is there something else I need to do?
- We have a red Haven peach dwarf peach tree. It is really not growing as tall as advertised. If that is the case and we plant a standard size can we count on it not getting as tall as advertised? What are the best peach trees for Utah. I know our zone Starks have a few trees that are very hardy but they really don't brag about the taste and quality of the peach. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks
- My Black Walnut tree is leaking sap terribly. What's wrong?
- I have several burning bushes and every year they start out great in the spring but later spring the leaves turn yellow, I have been adding iron to the soil around them and it seems to help a bit but it still happens every year. Could it be something else?
- We created square foot gardens last year and have discovered the cat has used them for a litter box over the winter and spring. There isn't a large amount of feces,which we remove, but we are concerned that it may have contaminated the soil. Should we dig it out and start over?
- I am a landscape designer and have a client in Hyrum with an orchard of about 25 misc. fruit trees. Of course the clients want low maintenance. What is a good way to control weeds in the orchard? Turf? Bare soil and cultivation? Bark mulch? If turf is a good option, what variety? Thanks.
- We would like to know if Legacy Buffalo Grass would work alone in our back yard or whether we should mix it with something else. We are looking for a low water, low mowing frequency product that will work well with dogs who live inside but do run hard and play on it. We also like the pollen free feature of Buffalo Grass as one of our dogs has allergies and chews at her feet after being outside. We currently have mostly Bermuda grass and are in the process of killing it off. We live in Hooper and our yard is approximately 1/2 acre with a few young trees along the borders (which of course will get bigger). The trees are Mulberries, Cottonwoods, Red Oaks, Tulip Trees and Austrian Pines. Suggestions for mixes we have heard are Sheep's Fescue and Bella Bluegrass. Also, is there a place in Utah where we can buy these grasses so we don't have to pay a large price for shipping?