Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I think I have Johnsongrass invading my back lawn. I has sprayed the usual Crabgrass/lawn grassy weed killer on it and it is still taking over my entire lawn. What can I do?
Rate This FAQ
Here is a link to Johnson grass control from University of Missouri Extension. The excerpt below on control emphasizes an integrated approach, that is using many different methods to manage the Johnson grass, there is not a silver bullet but an integrated pest management approach to deal with this weed.
link to the article is http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=g4872
Preventing johnsongrass from becoming established in new areas is the best available control method, because the weed spreads in so many ways. Because johnsongrass is a perennial weed, single cultural control measures or herbicide applications rarely provide adequate control.
Johnsongrass control programs should
* Prevent spread of rhizomes from infested to uninfested areas.
* Kill or weaken established plants and their underground rhizome system.
* Control seedlings originating from shattered seed.
* Prevent production of seed and its spread to new areas.
* Use fall tillage to bring rhizomes to soil surface, where they may be killed by winter conditions.
These objectives are closely related and are equally important to the success or failure of a control program. In limited infestations, it is possible and desirable to use herbicides to kill the weed and prevent seed production. The critical time to kill johnsongrass is while the weed is becoming established and before it has spread over the entire field. For sites with established infestations, a fall application of Roundup or Touchdown will kill emerged tissue and often developing rhizomes.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I have a Blierana flowering plum tree that failed to leaf out fully this spring. I looked at it yesterday and found at least fifty places on the branches where a snake-like resin/sap has been pushed out of the branch. Is this a borer doing damage? What do I do? Should I remove the tree to prevent further damage to surrounding trees? Is there something I can spray? Can I ever plant a tree in this same spot? I have trees all along my fence line in a row and really need a replacement tree if this one is going to die.
- I just moved to SLC from Phx,Az and many of the plants here are new to me. I have some flowers in my yard that resemble "Blue Dicks" closely but, the flowers do not cluster -- they each form on a single stem and have been flowering since the end of April. I also have some Violet-like flowers growing in my lawn at about the same height as the grass. I would like to know what they might be and where I might be able to purchase seed or bulbs of the same type so I can plant more
- We want to plant a couple of trees in our front yard that don't get very big (about 10 to 15 feet high). Can you suggest any are not messy and don't send up runners? If you have literature on selecting trees, could you send me a link?
- What materials should I use to raise depressions in my lawn around retaining walls and sidewalks?
- I would like to build some grow boxes for vegetables. Do you have any recommendations what type of wood or other material should be used for a grow box?
- What night-time temperatures are too cold for "tender plants" such as tomatoes, squashes, annual bedding plants, etc.?
- I want to plant raspberries in my garden next spring but am confused. Which does better in Cache Valley: summer- or fall-bearing? The USU pub on raspberry production (HG/2004-16) says plant only Haida or Malling Joy, but I haven't found anything about these species on the web. Is this statement still valid? If so, are they fall- or summer-bearing? If not, what is your species suggestion?
- I have just purchased two plum trees Santa Rosa and Satsuma. I've read that they have higher water requirements than peach trees. I have two locations I am considering for these tress. I live very close to Utah Lake. The water table is very high here and the winters seem somewhat more mild because of the lower elevation and the proximity of the lake. Both locations are on the east side of the house. One is about 7 feet above the water level in our upper yard the other is 6 feet below in in the lower yard. The soil in the upper yard is mostly clean fill with lots of clay and rock but would provide shelter from harsh afternoon sun and wind. The soil in the lower yard is comprised highly of organic material. I would build a mound so that the tree would be elevated from direct contact with the water but there would still be water more easily available to the root system than in the upper yard. It would not receive shelter from the afternoon sun until much later in the afternoon/evening and would not receive much if any shelter from the wind. The main advantage in the second location is the nice soil and the proximity to moisture. I have some grapes that have done well in the more wet less sheltered second location.