Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I am buying a new house in Salt Lake County, and the entire back yard is weeds. I want to put in a garden towards the back and fill in the rest with grass. What is the best way to kill the weeds completely, without killing the new grass and affecting the garden?
Rate This FAQ
Weeds are never eradicated but managed. One treatment will knock down quite a few but there are weed seeds that can stay in the soil and germinate up to 50 years (field bindweed). There are different types of weeds and have different growth patterns, some are annuals while some are perennials. Probably the least toxic and effective is using a glyphosate based weed killer ( like Roundup). The plants have to be actively growing for glyphosate to work, the plants take up the glyphosate and if they are not growing it does not get into plant tissue - so read instructions thoroughly to ensure best results. Be careful with any chemical herbicide because more is not better, proper application at the correct time is cost and time-effective.
As for putting in a lawn, here is an excerpt on site preparation to establish a good lawn.
Site Preparation Steps
Clear the site of all building materials (wood, cement, bricks, etc.), as well as any buried stumps, rocks , stones or other debris that is larger than 4-5 cm (2-3 inches) in diameter.
Rough grade the entire area to eliminate any drainage problems on the property. This would include sloping the grade away from building foundations, eliminating or reducing severe slopes and filling low-lying areas. A tractor-mounted blade and/or box are most often used for rough grading, but if the area is smaller, it can be done with hand tools. The rough grading will probably uncover more debris that should be removed and not buried.
Initial tilling, to a depth of at least 5 cm (2 inches), should be completed prior to adding any topsoil or soil amendments. This will control most annual weeds, alleviate subsoil compaction and permit a bonding of the topsoil to the subsoil and improve root penetration and water movement.
Add organic matter (compost) to achieve a total depth of 10-15 cm (4-6 inches), after firming. To the extent possible, practical, affordable and available, incorporate humus (fully decomposed organic matter) into the topsoil.
Apply "starter fertilizer"
Finish grade the entire site, maintaining the rough grading contours and slopes, with a tractor-mounted box blade on large areas or heavy-duty rake on smaller sites.
Roll the area with a lawn roller one third full of water to firm and settle the surface and reveal any low spots that should be filled to match the surrounding grade surface. If time permits, allow the area to settle further with rainfall or by applying irrigation water.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I am actually in Colorado, I am interested in the zone(s) in Eden. I am designing a landscape there and want to plant accordingly. I, also, am interested in a list of noxious plants, I'd like to avoid them. Thank You!
- My blue spruce shrubs are turning brown and look like they are dying. What is wrong?
- Is There Any Way To Eliminate Borers That Leave What Looks Like Sawdust At The Base Of Our Aspen Trees?
- My roses and boxelder trees have sticky (sap) leaves, what is causing this problem?
- We have clover infesting our grass. Each clover plant has these pod-like objects, that when picked or brushed up against causes white larva-like and red seeds to hop or pop off. The red seeds stick to skin and clothing and is irritating to the skin. The clovers also have little yellow flowers that sprout. How do we get rid of these clovers so we might play and use our lawn again. How do you keep them from coming back?
- Do you have tips on managing grasshoppers in my yard?
- Last May I planted an eight foot Sub-Alpine Fir in my new yard. My soil is very sandy. We deep watered the tree once a week throughout the hot season. The tree never showed any sign of stress until now (March). The ends of the branches are turning brown. I know these trees are sensitive. What can I do to best ensure the tree survives?
- I'm getting ready to plant grass in my back yard either this fall or in the spring. I'm wondering if dwarf fescue will grow well here in Springville, or if I would be better off planting bluegrass? I had dewarf fescue in Southern California and really liked it.