Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I am buying a new house in Salt Lake County, and the entire back yard is weeds. I want to put in a garden towards the back and fill in the rest with grass. What is the best way to kill the weeds completely, without killing the new grass and affecting the garden?
Rate This FAQ
Weeds are never eradicated but managed. One treatment will knock down quite a few but there are weed seeds that can stay in the soil and germinate up to 50 years (field bindweed). There are different types of weeds and have different growth patterns, some are annuals while some are perennials. Probably the least toxic and effective is using a glyphosate based weed killer ( like Roundup). The plants have to be actively growing for glyphosate to work, the plants take up the glyphosate and if they are not growing it does not get into plant tissue - so read instructions thoroughly to ensure best results. Be careful with any chemical herbicide because more is not better, proper application at the correct time is cost and time-effective.
As for putting in a lawn, here is an excerpt on site preparation to establish a good lawn.
Site Preparation Steps
Clear the site of all building materials (wood, cement, bricks, etc.), as well as any buried stumps, rocks , stones or other debris that is larger than 4-5 cm (2-3 inches) in diameter.
Rough grade the entire area to eliminate any drainage problems on the property. This would include sloping the grade away from building foundations, eliminating or reducing severe slopes and filling low-lying areas. A tractor-mounted blade and/or box are most often used for rough grading, but if the area is smaller, it can be done with hand tools. The rough grading will probably uncover more debris that should be removed and not buried.
Initial tilling, to a depth of at least 5 cm (2 inches), should be completed prior to adding any topsoil or soil amendments. This will control most annual weeds, alleviate subsoil compaction and permit a bonding of the topsoil to the subsoil and improve root penetration and water movement.
Add organic matter (compost) to achieve a total depth of 10-15 cm (4-6 inches), after firming. To the extent possible, practical, affordable and available, incorporate humus (fully decomposed organic matter) into the topsoil.
Apply "starter fertilizer"
Finish grade the entire site, maintaining the rough grading contours and slopes, with a tractor-mounted box blade on large areas or heavy-duty rake on smaller sites.
Roll the area with a lawn roller one third full of water to firm and settle the surface and reveal any low spots that should be filled to match the surrounding grade surface. If time permits, allow the area to settle further with rainfall or by applying irrigation water.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I have several Dwarf Blue Arctic Willows in my yard. This year they were full of some kind of wasp or bee. I waited until winter and the leaves dropped off to see if there was a hive or nest and there does not seem to be one. In looking for the nest I noticed some small black bugs on the wood. What should I do, if anything and are the two pests related in any way?
- How do I get rid of wild morning glory?
- There are brown spots in my lawn every summer, some are round and others are ribbon shaped. What can I do to prevent this problem?
- I live in rose park and am selecting trees to add to my backyard. I have full sun and dark rich soil. I want a good shade tree but am not sure what would be best. I have been looking at different types of maple trees but am wary about their growth rates. Are there any trees that you could recommend?
- I have about an acre of commercial property that I want to control all vegetation. Is there a good ground sterilizer on the market? Where can I purchase it?
- I have 2 cottonless cottonwoods in my back yard. They are both about 7 years old. I noticed this spring that the trees have really grown tall but on the main limbs in the middle of the trees there are no limbs coming from them. I also find little pieces of new branches all over my lawn like they have come off right at the base where they connect to the tree. There are also at those points little scabs of some kind right where the branch has broken off. What is wrong and can I save these trees? I grew this kind of tree because they are fast growing trees and I wanted to enjoy some shade while I was still around to enjoy it. I am so afraid that there is something seriously wrong and those years will be lost. Can you help me with the info I have given you? I would appreciate it so much if you have an idea of what is wrong and what I can do to fix it.
- I have a large Pinion pine that we trimmed back the lower branches on last fall, The grass is not doing well there due to limited light, could I add a flower bed there instead, and if so what type of plants would do well in my VERY clay soil. Also isnt' there something about not planting flowers over/next to a tree trunk? thanks
- We have a large pine tree in our yard that looks like it is dying. Can someone from extension come and look at it and tell me if it is dying or if this summer's heat has just caused it to withdraw in. It gets south and west sunlight all day long. Thanks