Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I need info on the care and maintenance of a Christmas Poinsetta. In the past I have lost them and really wish to keep this one alive to add to my current household of plants.
Rate This FAQ
Poinsettias are native Mexican plants. They love the holiday season because they are short-day plants that require long nights to launch their color change. The colorful bracts of these plants are leaves, not flowers, with the most common bract color being red. The flower buds are the red or green buttons in the center of the bracts that open to a small yellow flower. Healthy poinsettias have dark green leaves below the bracts and foliage all the way to the base. With proper care and attention, your poinsettia can brighten your home for months to come. Consider these tips.
Poinsettias need a minimum of six hours of indirect sunlight each day. Protect the plants from freezing temperatures, especially when transporting them. Place them in a light-filled room away from drafts. They do best in rooms between 55 and 65 F at night and 65 to 70 F during the day. Keep poinsettias away from cooler locations and avoid exposing them to temperatures below 50 F. Water poinsettias when the soil is dry 2 to 3 inches down. The plants are very sensitive to overwatering and will develop root rot quickly if kept too wet. Water the pot thoroughly, letting excess water drain out of the bottom. Apply an all purpose, water-soluble fertilizer once a week to keep plants healthy during the holidays. Once the colorful bracts drop off, reduce watering and fertilization to give the plants a rest period. Trim the poinsettia back so that just a few leaves are left. With proper care, poinsettia bracts can be maintained until about March or April. Once they begin to fall, cut the plant back, leaving about six buds. For the first couple of weeks, the plant will resemble a stick. Water and fertilize as before, and by May it will begin to leaf out again. For an interesting, unusual outdoor plant, poinsettias can be taken outside in the spring when the danger of a freeze is past. Place the plant in a shady location, and it can be enjoyed throughout the summer. To keep the plant small and compact, cut it back about mid-July and early September to stimulate branching. Beginning the first of October, put the plant in complete darkness as soon as the sun sets, allowing a minimum of 14 hours of darkness. A bag can be placed over the plant, or it can be set in a closet throughout the day. By the end of November, it will start to color and you will be able to enjoy it for another season.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- We have planted tomato plants and used “Miracle Grow” the plants are big and healthy and have many blossoms but no tomatoes have as yet began to grow, we have seen different kinds of bees pollinating the blossoms at times. I have never had this happen before can you give us some advice concerning this? Thanks, Lewis Draney
- Can I recycle garden waste without composting?
- When and with what should I spray my peach and apple trees for pests?
- What is the secret to getting carrots to germinate?
- I am wrapping up my garden for the year. I have been looking at adding horse manure to my garden soil to boost the organic matter in it. This year I added NutriMulch (turkey manure blend) and that worked out well, but was expensive. I'm concerned about the soil quality. I notice that it's pretty hard when in big dry clods. Would I be hurting my garden to add green horse manure now, and tilling it in? I've read a little about deficiencies in the soil because of too much horse manure, so if it's safe or even a good idea to add to a garden, how much is the right amount?
- I planted 2 plum trees several years ago. The 3rd year I had a huge crop. The next 2 years the leaves had what I think is peach leaf curl or at least that's how it made the leaves look. I sprayed both years with no improvement. This year I've also sprayed but after blossoming, the leafing is very sickly, the leaves done even really form, they just make tiny clusters of pale spikes that look like tiny curled leaves. Is there anything I can so short of digging them out? Can they be saved or I am better off just starting from scratch? How to I make sure what is there doesn't contaminate the new trees? Thanks.
- I have some shrubs that have been dying off in a wierd manner. Just sections at a time will completly die in a matter of a day or so, not even time to try and treat it. There are no outward signs of bugs and the rest of the shrub will be perfectly healthy. It has done this to more than one of my shrubs and also done this to more than one kind of shrub. It started last summer where I lost part of a couple and one hole shrub. I thought I had it taken care of by the end of the summer but when I mowed last week for the first time I noticed I have almost totaly lost another and there are spots on some others. The plants have been here for as many as 10 years or so and are very well taken care of. The only thing I can think of is about 3 years ago I put new plastic down and new bark, could the new plastic cause this.
- How can I protect my raspberries from insect pests?