Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I am a landscape designer and have a client in Hyrum with an orchard of about 25 misc. fruit trees. Of course the clients want low maintenance. What is a good way to control weeds in the orchard? Turf? Bare soil and cultivation? Bark mulch? If turf is a good option, what variety? Thanks.
Rate This FAQ
There are several options for controlling weeds in the orchard. One that is very popular in areas is to plant turf in the rows of the orchard and leaving the drip-line of the tree turf free. If this option were used 203 inches of mulch could be placed under the drip-line. I would not recommend using a regular turfgrass such as Kentucky bluegrass. Grasses such as this have very different water requirements than trees. You would have to water to optimize the health of one or the other. The turf usually wins. Grasses such as hard fescue or a type of cabin mix would be more suited for an orchard setting. You may also consider buffalo grass. Occasional mowing will be required. With this information, I am assuming irrigation is available.
Tilling /cultivating on a monthly basis is another option. It is easy, given the correct equipment is available. In combination with this a pre-emergent herbicide this this method can be effective. Consult the label for specific instructions.
Weed control is also possible with products containing glyphosate (RoundUp, Killz-All, etc.) Extreme caution should be taken to not get the product on tree trunks or within the drip line of the trees. The latest research suggests that repeated glyphosate application made in these areas are harmful to many trees. Also, do not use a soil sterilizer at all in this situation.
As with most things in life, there is no perfect solution. If the clients are wanting a more manicured look I would consider an appropriate turf. It would mean more maintenance than tilling. If absolute low maintenance is the goal, tilling and pre-emergent would be acceptable.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- We bought a home in East Millcreek w/out any trees in the front yard. We really like the look of the Sycamore tree (with the mottled bark), but don't know if that is the best choice. Is it possible to get one that doesn't bear fruit (itchy-bombs, as we called it as children)? What other trees would you suggest as a large shade tree? Once we decide on a tree, I was planning on checking with all our neighbors to see if they want to plant the same tree so that 20 years down the road, we have a beautiful street. So, I want to plant something that won't make my neighbors despise me down the road!
- I live in Mapleton. I have been reading about the James Pecan Tree, which is supposed to mature by September 1st and be okay in zone 5. What do you think about my trying to grow it here? How do they do?
- I have a peach tree with lots of little branches that look burnt at the ends. The rest of the tree looks healthy, but the ends of the branches keep turning black and dying.
- My petunias are horribly sticky - I assume thrips are in control although I have tried to keep them washed off (insecticidal soap) and sprayed with a systemic (orthonex). Is there anything else I might try? Would a dormant oil spray work, and if so when would I use it? Also, there are small worms that are probably chomping the blossoms. What would work to prevent or kill them? How do worms can get into my flower boxes, that are at least 6 feet off the ground?
- Our home was built in 1998 and we are the second owners. The first owners landscaped the yard, but didn't consider that the trees, shrubs, etc. would grow. We have trees that were planted too close to the sidewalk and shrubs that were planted too close to the house. They are beautiful, but too close. We also have a large cottonwood tree in the backyard that provides good shade, but its root are now pushing above the ground. I think I know the answer, but is there a good way to redo the landscaping without removing all of the good features at once?
- I would like to plant trees in my park strip, but have a gas line running through the middle. If I hand dig, is it ok to plant trees over the top of the line? What is the depth of gas lines?
- My greenhouse made of visqueen does not allow the sun to hit soil, causing the growth of algae on the surface. What must be done?
- Your answer about watering wasn't specific enough for me. My tomatoes have always cracked and it wasn't until last year that I got the vague answer about uneven watering. Now I'm beginning to think that my gallon a day watering of my one little plant was too much. I also have a drip system that waters three times a week just under the soil at the base of the plant. Should I stop being a helicopter mom and leave it just to the drip system? My plant is a foot high, been in the ground with lots of organic material and has a few small tomatoes. Please tell me how much and how often to water.