Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
Is it good to cut the lawn shorter right before winter? I normally cut my lawn quite high, but it seems like I heard that it is good to cut it shorter for winter. Thanks.
Rate This FAQ
The cooler temperatures have probably strengthened your lawn after the hot, dry summer. Grass color and density have likely improved. Consider these tips to enhance the grass’s recovery and to prepare your lawn for winter. Keep in mind that the things you do now for your lawn play a key role in how well it will fare during next summer’s hot, dry months.
Stop your lawn irrigation. As cooler weather intensifies, grass does not need as much irrigation as it did during the heat of the summer. Now is the perfect opportunity to conserve water. A great deal of water can be wasted in the fall because irrigation controllers are not adjusted for cooler temperatures.
Prepare for the final mowing. As the weather gets cooler, your lawn will grow more slowly. At some point soon, you will perform your last mowing of the growing season. This is a critical time in the life and health of your lawn. A healthy mowing height of 2 1/2 –3 1/2 inches promotes root growth and stress tolerance during the summer, but your final mowing height of the season should be much shorter. A mowing height of 1 to 1 1/2 inches will reduce the chances of snow mold disease. Grass blades left long over the winter can lie over and increase humidity beneath snow cover. If there is lengthy snow cover, snow mold disease may occur.
Apply your last fertilization. After your final mowing is the best time to apply your last fertilization of the growing season. Nitrogen is of primary concern. Following the last mowing, apply 1 pound of quick-release nitrogen fertilizer per thousand square feet of lawn. It is important to use a quick-release nitrogen source so that grass can take it up before going dormant when the cold weather hits. This is probably the most critical fertilization of the entire growing season and should not be missed. Research has shown that this late fall fertilization provides the most benefit and drought tolerance to the lawn the following summer. These simple steps will ensure that your lawn makes it through the winter and is healthy and strong next summer.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I would like to have a live, potted evergreen as my Christmas tree, and then plant it in my yard. Must the decorated tree remain outside? What species of tree would you recommend?
- Our home was built in 1998 and we are the second owners. The first owners landscaped the yard, but didn't consider that the trees, shrubs, etc. would grow. We have trees that were planted too close to the sidewalk and shrubs that were planted too close to the house. They are beautiful, but too close. We also have a large cottonwood tree in the backyard that provides good shade, but its root are now pushing above the ground. I think I know the answer, but is there a good way to redo the landscaping without removing all of the good features at once?
- My green peppers have black at the stems of almost every branch. Is there anything I can do to save them?
- I would like to find out where I can obtain a list of the daily rainfall/precip totals for the Logan area.
- Please send me a list of what is recommended for gardening vegetables as far as the soil is concerned.
- How can you tell if a fertilizer is a "slow-release"? What are the best NPK ratios for this area?
- Last fall I bought a daffodil mixture. They bloomed great this spring, but in October they have all started to come up. What's going on?
- The leaves of our sweet cherry tree have yellowed and our falling off at an alarming rate. This started two weeks ago and in another week ALL the leaves will have dropped except for a few on the tips of new growth (i.e. water spouts). This happened last year to two of our other sweet cherry trees. They did NOT come back this spring. Dead! The trees are 25 years old and pruned yearly. I've been fairly diligent about spraying (dormant oil, fruit fly, and borer) for the six years I've owned the house. At times they have shown signs of borer (or other insect) damage since there has been gumming spots on the trees. When I bought the house I removed the grass around the trees (not quite to the drip line,but a about four feet from the trunk. The trees get water from the lawn sprinklers, but I regularly (every 2-3 weeks) let a hose run water around the tree and soak in for a couple hours. When I fertilize the garden (commercial IFA garden chemical fertilizer)I toss a couple handfuls at the base of each tree. So some fertilizer about twice a year. The soil around the house is mixed. I would guess that most of it is moderate clay. We live on the edge of the bench not far from the mouth of Hobble Creek Canyon. If I had just walked into the yard, I would guess that the trees were getting too much water (yellowing leaves) instead of not enough water (dry crisping leaves). But I really don't water the trees that much and not at all in the last couple weeks when this yellow & leaf drop started. My only other clue is some leaves have brown spots. About the time we bought the house, a neighbor had a cherry tree drop most of its leaves and they were told (USU ext?) that it was a fungus; they sprayed and saved the tree. They've moved so I can't ask them specifics. I don't remember if the leaves had yellowed and then dropped. Too long ago. Help?