Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
This year we planted our first home garden. It was a lot of fun, but we need to know what to do to make it better next year. Specifically: our plants grew VERY large, but did not yield much fruit. What fruit we did get was typically small and misshapen. We did not fertilize, except some nitrogen along with dead lawn clippings last fall. What should we do this fall to get the soils ready for more fruit and less leaves next year?
Rate This FAQ
It sounds although you believe you did not overfertilize, but the "symptoms of large plantswith little fruit suggests too much nitrogen". I recommend a basic soil sample which costs $14 and require a total of 2 cups of soil randomly selected from several areas of your vegetable bed to give you a baseline on soil texture, pH, salinity, phosphorus and potassium. Then you have a basis for amending your soil appropriately.
Information on soil testing and Fertilizing for a successful garden can be found on our county website by clicking on the following link http://extension.usu.edu/saltlake/htm/horticulture/fruit-and-vegetables . Scroll down and find many great informative short (1-2 page) fact sheets on growing different vegetables and fruits.
Different plants have different nutrient requirements so it isn't always a one fertilizer fits all scenario. Peas and beans are nitrogen fixers and do not require added nitrogen, and actually are used to enrich soils and are good if you rotate crops to introduce peas and beans in the rotation for that ability to fix nitrogen. On the other end of the spectrum regarding nitrogen use is corn. It is a heavy nitrogen feeder and requires quite a bit of nitrogen. It's best to know the needs of each fruit or vegetable and fertilize accordingly. The advantage of organic composts for fertilizing is they provide slow release of nutrients like nitrogen, the buffer soil pH, and improve soil texture.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I would like to plant some fruit and nut bearing trees to assist us with our food supply. Are there some trees better than others?
- I have successfully grown summer squash for many years, but this year the newer leaves on the plants (sunburst hybrid) are wilting and dying, despite (or because of?) the cool wet June weather we are experiencing. The more mature leaves seem to be okay. I cut one of the leaves off at its base and didn't see any evidence of insect infestation in the stem or on the leaf. The base of the plant also appears to be free of insect infestation. Do you know what might be causing the problem, can it be treated, or do I need to pull up the plants, and if so, can I put new plants in the same location (the rest of the garden space is already filled)?
- I think I have Johnsongrass invading my back lawn. I has sprayed the usual Crabgrass/lawn grassy weed killer on it and it is still taking over my entire lawn. What can I do?
- The leaves of our sweet cherry tree have yellowed and our falling off at an alarming rate. This started two weeks ago and in another week ALL the leaves will have dropped except for a few on the tips of new growth (i.e. water spouts). This happened last year to two of our other sweet cherry trees. They did NOT come back this spring. Dead! The trees are 25 years old and pruned yearly. I've been fairly diligent about spraying (dormant oil, fruit fly, and borer) for the six years I've owned the house. At times they have shown signs of borer (or other insect) damage since there has been gumming spots on the trees. When I bought the house I removed the grass around the trees (not quite to the drip line,but a about four feet from the trunk. The trees get water from the lawn sprinklers, but I regularly (every 2-3 weeks) let a hose run water around the tree and soak in for a couple hours. When I fertilize the garden (commercial IFA garden chemical fertilizer)I toss a couple handfuls at the base of each tree. So some fertilizer about twice a year. The soil around the house is mixed. I would guess that most of it is moderate clay. We live on the edge of the bench not far from the mouth of Hobble Creek Canyon. If I had just walked into the yard, I would guess that the trees were getting too much water (yellowing leaves) instead of not enough water (dry crisping leaves). But I really don't water the trees that much and not at all in the last couple weeks when this yellow & leaf drop started. My only other clue is some leaves have brown spots. About the time we bought the house, a neighbor had a cherry tree drop most of its leaves and they were told (USU ext?) that it was a fungus; they sprayed and saved the tree. They've moved so I can't ask them specifics. I don't remember if the leaves had yellowed and then dropped. Too long ago. Help?
- My new austrian pines planted in the fall are looking pale in color and a lot of needles have fallen off. Also, my older austrian pines are looking the same way. What do they need? The soil has a lot of clay and is quite alkaline. My new spruce in the same area is doing great. What do the pines need?
- We currently have an elm tree in our front yard. It has been diagnosed with slime flux. We would like to plant another tree next to it,seeing as they said the stump was so big that they would just leave it. Will this cause a problem for any other trees? We want another large shade tree. Will it get the slime flux too if we plant it near it?
- I have a Bartlett pear tree that has black spots on the leaves and holes chewed on some leaves and a few curled up leaves. Could you tell me what to spray for these problems?
- I have an older crab apple tree that is focal point of my small yard. About 3 years ago the leaves became infected with powdery mildew. I have been told to not do anything with this, as it will eventually go away and the tree will fine - but over the years it has gotten much worse each spring. There are only about 60% of the leaves that are starting to look healthy by mid-June. Over all, the leaves are withered and this year we have very few blossoms. Another problem: The tree also has four large limbs that come out of the trunk. I noticed that there seemed to be wood pulp inside a place where a branch was cut off years ago. I scooped out the pulp and found that some bug or other creature has created a cavity that goes 6” into the 10-12” diameter limb and a large man’s fist could easily fit into the hole that has been created. While inspecting the hole I discovered a ¼” or so hole in the very back of the cavity, but no sign of the culprit. The limb seems to be doing fine, as the leaves on the branches from this limb are in no better or worse shape than the rest of the tree. I had my tree pruned by a highly recommended person this spring, in hopes that this would help with my powdery mildew problem. I love my tree, what should I do next about my perpetual powdery mildew problem and the unknown culprit who is dinning on my tree limb?