Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
This year we planted our first home garden. It was a lot of fun, but we need to know what to do to make it better next year. Specifically: our plants grew VERY large, but did not yield much fruit. What fruit we did get was typically small and misshapen. We did not fertilize, except some nitrogen along with dead lawn clippings last fall. What should we do this fall to get the soils ready for more fruit and less leaves next year?
Rate This FAQ
It sounds although you believe you did not overfertilize, but the "symptoms of large plantswith little fruit suggests too much nitrogen". I recommend a basic soil sample which costs $14 and require a total of 2 cups of soil randomly selected from several areas of your vegetable bed to give you a baseline on soil texture, pH, salinity, phosphorus and potassium. Then you have a basis for amending your soil appropriately.
Information on soil testing and Fertilizing for a successful garden can be found on our county website by clicking on the following link http://extension.usu.edu/saltlake/htm/horticulture/fruit-and-vegetables . Scroll down and find many great informative short (1-2 page) fact sheets on growing different vegetables and fruits.
Different plants have different nutrient requirements so it isn't always a one fertilizer fits all scenario. Peas and beans are nitrogen fixers and do not require added nitrogen, and actually are used to enrich soils and are good if you rotate crops to introduce peas and beans in the rotation for that ability to fix nitrogen. On the other end of the spectrum regarding nitrogen use is corn. It is a heavy nitrogen feeder and requires quite a bit of nitrogen. It's best to know the needs of each fruit or vegetable and fertilize accordingly. The advantage of organic composts for fertilizing is they provide slow release of nutrients like nitrogen, the buffer soil pH, and improve soil texture.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- We have Ray wood ash trees around our home and last year they were topped by hormworms. What do you suggest?
- I have thornless red raspberries that have been planted for three years. (I don't know the name of the variety.) The berries are very small - too small. Suggestions?
- I am going to overseed my west lawn. Do I need some type of covering (straw, peat, etc.) to help keep the seeds in place?
- I would like to build some grow boxes for vegetables. Do you have any recommendations what type of wood or other material should be used for a grow box?
- We would like to know if Legacy Buffalo Grass would work alone in our back yard or whether we should mix it with something else. We are looking for a low water, low mowing frequency product that will work well with dogs who live inside but do run hard and play on it. We also like the pollen free feature of Buffalo Grass as one of our dogs has allergies and chews at her feet after being outside. We currently have mostly Bermuda grass and are in the process of killing it off. We live in Hooper and our yard is approximately 1/2 acre with a few young trees along the borders (which of course will get bigger). The trees are Mulberries, Cottonwoods, Red Oaks, Tulip Trees and Austrian Pines. Suggestions for mixes we have heard are Sheep's Fescue and Bella Bluegrass. Also, is there a place in Utah where we can buy these grasses so we don't have to pay a large price for shipping?
- We don't have morning glory in our lawn, but it is taking over our strawberries. Is there anything we can do? If we decide we'd rather get rid of the morning glory instead of saving the strawberries, will roundup get rid of it?
- I have some fruit trees in a lawn area that I have been fertilizing with ammonium sulfate, but needed to change to a weed & feed. Is the fruit still safe to eat?
- We bought a house that has quaking aspens around the perimeter of the yard. About half of them are dying or are already dead. What can we do to prevent the rest of them from dying, and what should we do with the dead trees?