Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
Do you have a list of good varieties of produce producing plants to grow in this area? I am looking to plant fruit trees this fall and start a garden next year.
Rate This FAQ
There are too many varieties of fruit trees and vegetables to list here. We have two booklets, one called "Growing Vegetables, Recommended Varieties for Utah" and another called "Home Vegetable Garden: Variety Recommendations for Utah" Both of these list varieities by name, as well as planting dates, days to maturity, etc. We also have a booklet entitled "Fruit and Nut Variety Recommendations for Utah"
I suggest that you come in and take a look at these booklets. There are new varieties coming out all the time, so it is impossible to always be up-to-date. I enjoy trying a few different varieties of vegetables every year. If you buy your vegetables at a reputable nursery, you should get things that will grow here. For your trees, ask the nurseryman if it will grow in your hardiness zone and in your soil pH. and texture.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- The leaves of our sweet cherry tree have yellowed and our falling off at an alarming rate. This started two weeks ago and in another week ALL the leaves will have dropped except for a few on the tips of new growth (i.e. water spouts). This happened last year to two of our other sweet cherry trees. They did NOT come back this spring. Dead! The trees are 25 years old and pruned yearly. I've been fairly diligent about spraying (dormant oil, fruit fly, and borer) for the six years I've owned the house. At times they have shown signs of borer (or other insect) damage since there has been gumming spots on the trees. When I bought the house I removed the grass around the trees (not quite to the drip line,but a about four feet from the trunk. The trees get water from the lawn sprinklers, but I regularly (every 2-3 weeks) let a hose run water around the tree and soak in for a couple hours. When I fertilize the garden (commercial IFA garden chemical fertilizer)I toss a couple handfuls at the base of each tree. So some fertilizer about twice a year. The soil around the house is mixed. I would guess that most of it is moderate clay. We live on the edge of the bench not far from the mouth of Hobble Creek Canyon. If I had just walked into the yard, I would guess that the trees were getting too much water (yellowing leaves) instead of not enough water (dry crisping leaves). But I really don't water the trees that much and not at all in the last couple weeks when this yellow & leaf drop started. My only other clue is some leaves have brown spots. About the time we bought the house, a neighbor had a cherry tree drop most of its leaves and they were told (USU ext?) that it was a fungus; they sprayed and saved the tree. They've moved so I can't ask them specifics. I don't remember if the leaves had yellowed and then dropped. Too long ago. Help?
- I have a pine tree that is dying. It has two or three branches that are dead or dying. Is there any treatment that I can use to stop this?
- It looks like something has bitten off whole leaves and blossoms from my tomato plants. They seem to be cut clean. What could be causing this and how can I fix it?
- I have just purchased two plum trees Santa Rosa and Satsuma. I've read that they have higher water requirements than peach trees. I have two locations I am considering for these tress. I live very close to Utah Lake. The water table is very high here and the winters seem somewhat more mild because of the lower elevation and the proximity of the lake. Both locations are on the east side of the house. One is about 7 feet above the water level in our upper yard the other is 6 feet below in in the lower yard. The soil in the upper yard is mostly clean fill with lots of clay and rock but would provide shelter from harsh afternoon sun and wind. The soil in the lower yard is comprised highly of organic material. I would build a mound so that the tree would be elevated from direct contact with the water but there would still be water more easily available to the root system than in the upper yard. It would not receive shelter from the afternoon sun until much later in the afternoon/evening and would not receive much if any shelter from the wind. The main advantage in the second location is the nice soil and the proximity to moisture. I have some grapes that have done well in the more wet less sheltered second location.
- I have seen ads for canada green grass seed. It talks about it's resistance to drought, and the fact that is a very hearty grass. Do you have any info on this grass seed?
- My new lawn I had hydroseeded last year went to seed this year and and is still looking poorly is there anything I can do to bring it back to looking good again?
- I have a mature elm in my backyard that was probably planted when the house was built in the 70's. We bought it 3 years ago and I have noticed that something is eating away at the bark. There is a reddish-brown streak (almost like what you would see in a human that has blood poisoning) that runs up the bark. I cut off one of the lower limbs that the problem had progressed to. The bark is very "mushy" and looks decayed. Chunks of bark fall off at the affected areas. I cannot see any bugs that may be causing this but I suspect that is the cause. This tree has 2 main branches that extend from the bottom and this is where the main damage seems to be. I am concerned that the tree could "split" at this point if it becomes weakened. I need to know the cause and treatment.
- We currently have an elm tree in our front yard. It has been diagnosed with slime flux. We would like to plant another tree next to it,seeing as they said the stump was so big that they would just leave it. Will this cause a problem for any other trees? We want another large shade tree. Will it get the slime flux too if we plant it near it?