Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
The leaves on my strawberry plants have turned a very pale green or yellow with some brown on the edges what do they need?
Rate This FAQ
The extension agent has asked me to reply to your email question. I can see that is has been a couple of weeks since you submitted this question. I apologize for the delay.
There are several reasons why strawberry plants can turn yellow or pale green. One of the most common problems is nutrient deficiencies due to overwatering. The browning on the edges of the leaves sounds like summer leaf scorch which can also be caused by overwatering. Overwatering causes poor root growth and this makes it difficult for plants to move enough water to the leaves during hot weather.
These are just some of the possibilities for your strawberry plant problems. Without more information from you, I can only guess what is wrong. I suggest you call our office and we can talk to you about your watering and fertilizer routine and get a better idea of what's going on.
Utah County Extension
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- Something is eating my garden. HELP! At first I thought it was snails because there were quite a few holes in the leaves of my beans and squash. Now, there are just skeleton leaves left of half my garden. I have treated for snails with PAX and for other insects with Seven. I have looked for squash bugs but to no avail. I have seen a great many ants and earwigs. Oh, and my tomatoes seem fine. Any tips?
- I have much vinca minor (dwarf periwinkle) planted about 20 years ago as ground cover in my yard. Some is in full sun, some is in part sun/part shade. Some small areas of the vinca (3-4 feet in diameter) in several places in the yard have begun the most recent two Springs looking yellow/pale green, not deep green like the rest of the gardens. Neither have they flowered. A couple of the small yellow/pale green areas e thinned, and some of the plants died. The veins in the leaves of the unhealthy plants are green, but the leaves are yellow/pale green. They have remained thus all summer. They don't turn brown and dry and die. I have treated with fertilizer and snail bait, but neither has had any effect on the unhealthy looking plants. Are these plants deficient in some nutrient? Healthy plants I planted in the bare areas had a hard time establishing but did eventually and have not paled. What should I do? I don't want the problem to spread. The periwinkle has added a great texture to the yard.
- I recently purchased a home in Sandy and there are chinese elms everywhere. Some of them are growing around gas and water lines. How do I get rid of them? Can I cut them down and poisen the root system? I also have a backyard that is completely overgrown with what I think is an annual bluegrass. I just want to rip all that out and plant seed in the fall. What is the best way to get rid of the annual bluegrass so it dosen't grow back next year? Can I just till it or do I need to do more than that?
- I have a large weeping willow tree in my backyard that has started dripping sap as well as loosing leaves. It appears that some of the larger branches are dying as well. Is there anything I could do to bring the tree back to life?
- I had three Canadian Red Chokecherry (prunus virginiana L.) planted Oct 2007; 1 1/2" caliper, 13' tall. This spring, the leaves were a solid green; now they they are turning a purplish red. Is this normal?
- Can Blenheim apricots be grown in Cache Valley? If so, what problems might I expect?
- I have just purchased two plum trees Santa Rosa and Satsuma. I've read that they have higher water requirements than peach trees. I have two locations I am considering for these tress. I live very close to Utah Lake. The water table is very high here and the winters seem somewhat more mild because of the lower elevation and the proximity of the lake. Both locations are on the east side of the house. One is about 7 feet above the water level in our upper yard the other is 6 feet below in in the lower yard. The soil in the upper yard is mostly clean fill with lots of clay and rock but would provide shelter from harsh afternoon sun and wind. The soil in the lower yard is comprised highly of organic material. I would build a mound so that the tree would be elevated from direct contact with the water but there would still be water more easily available to the root system than in the upper yard. It would not receive shelter from the afternoon sun until much later in the afternoon/evening and would not receive much if any shelter from the wind. The main advantage in the second location is the nice soil and the proximity to moisture. I have some grapes that have done well in the more wet less sheltered second location.
- I have several large beds in which I would like to plant shrubs, perennials, and some annuals. I am wondering what, if any, weed barrier I should use for these beds. I have heard different opinions advocating weed fabric, newspaper, or no weed barrier at all other than a layer of bark/mulch. If a thick layer of mulch alone is virtually as effective as weed barrier, I would rather avoid the expense and hassle of laying the barrier. Which is the best option?