Question
The leaves of our sweet cherry tree have yellowed and our falling off at an alarming rate. This started two weeks ago and in another week ALL the leaves will have dropped except for a few on the tips of new growth (i.e. water spouts). This happened last year to two of our other sweet cherry trees. They did NOT come back this spring. Dead! The trees are 25 years old and pruned yearly. I've been fairly diligent about spraying (dormant oil, fruit fly, and borer) for the six years I've owned the house. At times they have shown signs of borer (or other insect) damage since there has been gumming spots on the trees. When I bought the house I removed the grass around the trees (not quite to the drip line,but a about four feet from the trunk. The trees get water from the lawn sprinklers, but I regularly (every 2-3 weeks) let a hose run water around the tree and soak in for a couple hours. When I fertilize the garden (commercial IFA garden chemical fertilizer)I toss a couple handfuls at the base of each tree. So some fertilizer about twice a year. The soil around the house is mixed. I would guess that most of it is moderate clay. We live on the edge of the bench not far from the mouth of Hobble Creek Canyon. If I had just walked into the yard, I would guess that the trees were getting too much water (yellowing leaves) instead of not enough water (dry crisping leaves). But I really don't water the trees that much and not at all in the last couple weeks when this yellow & leaf drop started. My only other clue is some leaves have brown spots. About the time we bought the house, a neighbor had a cherry tree drop most of its leaves and they were told (USU ext?) that it was a fungus; they sprayed and saved the tree. They've moved so I can't ask them specifics. I don't remember if the leaves had yellowed and then dropped. Too long ago. Help?
Answer(s)
There are several reasons why a cherry tree might drop its leaves. I suggest that you check your watering first. Trees do best with a deep soak once every one to two weeks. Because your trees are in your lawn they are probably getting too much water. Overwatering can cause yellowing and leaf drop as well as poor growth in general.
Since you say that you have seen gumming spots on the trees, it is possible that you do have a problem with borers. Once crown borers are in the tree there is not much you can do except try to maintain good vigor and hope that the tree will not be badly damaged. Your tree should be sprayed for borers at the beginning of July and again at the beginning of August. Make sure you get thorough coverage on the trunk from the lower branches down onto the soil line.
There is a fungal disease of stone fruits called coryneum blight. It can cause small holes in the leaves and can also infect the twigs and damage the bark. This may be the fungal disease that your neighbors treated for. One of the diagnosticians can check for this if you bring in some sample twigs from the tree. We charge one dollar to do a diagnosis.
It would be good to take a few minutes and also check your trees for mites. A heavy infestation of mights can also cause leaf drop.
Please call us at 801-851-8462 if you have more questions.
Other Questions In This Topic
- The leaves on our maple tree get little spikes on the top of it and then dry up and fall off. Can you tell me the problem and how we may solve it?
- We have a red Haven peach dwarf peach tree. It is really not growing as tall as advertised. If that is the case and we plant a standard size can we count on it not getting as tall as advertised? What are the best peach trees for Utah. I know our zone Starks have a few trees that are very hardy but they really don't brag about the taste and quality of the peach. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks
- I have a huge weeping willow in my front yard. My next door neighbor swears the root system has invaded her septic line. She had a globe will previously taken out that was about 10 feet from her main water line while my weeper is about 30. My own line is about 15 feet from the weeper. Is there any validation to her statement?
- I just recently moved into a home that has these terrible "soda straw" type weeds that I can't get rid of. They pop apart and look like tall drinking straws. I have sprayed them with multiple rounds of poison (extra strength!) and dug them out by hand 2 or three times. They are coming back stronger than ever. What should I do?
- JUST SENT A EMAIL, I GUESS I CAN'T ATTACH A PICTURE OF THE TREE I'M AKING ABOUT, HOW CAN I SEND YOU A PICTURE OF IT? I DON'T KNOW WHAT KIND OF TREES THESE ARE.
- How can I get rid of Bur Buttercup? We have tried poisons over the past few years with little result. This year we tried a pre-emergent with little to no results. What can we do do get rid of them?
- Two questions; I have an dwarf Honey Crisp apple tree that is about 5 years old. Last year it had a dozen apples. I didn't disturb the fruit spurs when I picked the fruit. This year there were no blossoms on the tree. I didn't prune it at all. What can I do to help it produce every year? Second question; I have peach borers in the main branches of my nectarine tree. The tree seems healthy other than the borers. What can I do about them at this point? Will it help to dig them out? Will it help to spray? Will they winter over to next year?
- I would like to build some grow boxes for vegetables. Do you have any recommendations what type of wood or other material should be used for a grow box?

