Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I want to plant raspberries in my garden next spring but am confused. Which does better in Cache Valley: summer- or fall-bearing? The USU pub on raspberry production (HG/2004-16) says plant only Haida or Malling Joy, but I haven't found anything about these species on the web. Is this statement still valid? If so, are they fall- or summer-bearing? If not, what is your species suggestion?
Rate This FAQ
Both annual and ever-bearing raspberries can be grown in Cache Valley. The recommendations for Haida and Malling Joy are for locations with severe bushy dwarf and mosaic virus problems (e.g., Garden City). For most homeowner situations, you will not be so limited by virus resistance issues.
I am copying Dr. Brent Black, Extension Fruit Specialist, on this message and asking him to reply to you with recommendations on annual and ever-bearing varieties of raspberries for Cache County home gardens.
Both of those varieties are quite old and are no longer widely grown.
For fall bearing varieties, the oldest and still most popular is Heritage. Heritage produces lots of fruit but the fruit size is not the best. Newer varieties that are gaining in popularity in the region are Caroline, Anne (yellow fruited) and Polana. Polana is the newest of these and among the earliest of the fall bearers.
For summer bearing varieties, the old standard garden variety for Utah is Canby. However, in addition to virus susceptibility, Canby hasn't shown the best winter hardiness in Northern Utah over the past three years. Latham is an old standard that is quite winter hardy. If you are worried about bushy dwarf virus, Cowichan is a variety that is resistant and does reasonably well in Cache Valley. My personal favorite is the purple-fruited Royalty, which is a cross between red and black raspberries. It tolerates Cache Valley winters reasonably well and has a unique flavor.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- How do I get rid of the Quaking Aspen suckers that are coming up in my lawn without hurting the trees or the grass?
- I have some fruit trees in a lawn area that I have been fertilizing with ammonium sulfate, but needed to change to a weed & feed. Is the fruit still safe to eat?
- What night-time temperatures are too cold for "tender plants" such as tomatoes, squashes, annual bedding plants, etc.?
- What is the cost for a soil test?
- I just ordered some blueberry bushes and wondered where I need to plant them in my garden.
- Our house is in Murray between the Jordan River and the North Jordan Canal. It faces east, so our backyard in on the west side. We have a steep slope of clay soil. We need some trees which would provide shade and privacy. We have tried river birch, blue spruce and a pine. All have died. We have a deep water system for the trees. The needles on our spruce and pine turned brown and dropped off. What kind of trees could we plant under these circumstances?
- It looks like something has bitten off whole leaves and blossoms from my tomato plants. They seem to be cut clean. What could be causing this and how can I fix it?
- Looks like my potted tomato plants have Fusarium Wilt and will soon die. 1)Any thing I can do to save the plants and soil? 2)Can I eat the tomatos?