Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
The leaves on my grape plants have turned yellow. The veins are still green but the rest of the leaf is yellow. I added some iron about a week ago and have not noticed any change as yet. Is there something else I need to do?
Rate This FAQ
I am assuming that your grape leaves that are yellowing have veins that are a darker green color than the surrounding tissue. This is iron chlorosis and the reason that your iron application did not work is 1)it may not have been chelated iron. Chelated iron works best in our soils 2)it was applied too late in the season. It should be applied in spring just as the leaf buds swell and are starting to open. When applied mid-summer,when all the leaves are full size, it does very little good. There are foliar sprays that work temporarily, but are not long lasting. They could be applied now. Next year, apply chelated iron in the spring at leaf bud swell. Also watch the watering. Overwatering causes chlorosis.
If you have further questions, you can call us at 851-8462
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- Someone told me not to use cherry tomatoes in my spaghetti sauce due to inadequate acidity. If I pressure can the sauce and it also includes zucchini, onion, eggplant and fresh herbs, could it not also include some quantity of cherry tomatoes as part of the mix? I like to use up excess veggies in my sauce.
- The leaves of our sweet cherry tree have yellowed and our falling off at an alarming rate. This started two weeks ago and in another week ALL the leaves will have dropped except for a few on the tips of new growth (i.e. water spouts). This happened last year to two of our other sweet cherry trees. They did NOT come back this spring. Dead! The trees are 25 years old and pruned yearly. I've been fairly diligent about spraying (dormant oil, fruit fly, and borer) for the six years I've owned the house. At times they have shown signs of borer (or other insect) damage since there has been gumming spots on the trees. When I bought the house I removed the grass around the trees (not quite to the drip line,but a about four feet from the trunk. The trees get water from the lawn sprinklers, but I regularly (every 2-3 weeks) let a hose run water around the tree and soak in for a couple hours. When I fertilize the garden (commercial IFA garden chemical fertilizer)I toss a couple handfuls at the base of each tree. So some fertilizer about twice a year. The soil around the house is mixed. I would guess that most of it is moderate clay. We live on the edge of the bench not far from the mouth of Hobble Creek Canyon. If I had just walked into the yard, I would guess that the trees were getting too much water (yellowing leaves) instead of not enough water (dry crisping leaves). But I really don't water the trees that much and not at all in the last couple weeks when this yellow & leaf drop started. My only other clue is some leaves have brown spots. About the time we bought the house, a neighbor had a cherry tree drop most of its leaves and they were told (USU ext?) that it was a fungus; they sprayed and saved the tree. They've moved so I can't ask them specifics. I don't remember if the leaves had yellowed and then dropped. Too long ago. Help?
- My petunias are horribly sticky - I assume thrips are in control although I have tried to keep them washed off (insecticidal soap) and sprayed with a systemic (orthonex). Is there anything else I might try? Would a dormant oil spray work, and if so when would I use it? Also, there are small worms that are probably chomping the blossoms. What would work to prevent or kill them? How do worms can get into my flower boxes, that are at least 6 feet off the ground?
- I have a small backyard that has a house on the west and north side, a cinder block wall on the east side and a large tree shading a portion on the south side. Due to the high sides of our yard, we tried some part shade/part sun plants last year. But they got blasted in the heat. Our yard doesn't get 10 hours of sunlight but it gets very hot. Can I sucessfully grow a vegetable garden in part of it up against the houses and plant something along the cinder block wall - preferably grapes or raspberries, or other covering plants (can be non-fruit). Can you recommend a plant we can grow along the wall, both in the shaded and sunny parts? Any recomendations for better use of the space?
- I have an indoor pathos that I potted about a month ago. I noticed recently some fuzz on the soil. Is it mold? Yesterday, the end of the vine was black. How can I save the plant?
- I have recently identified three large plants growing on a stream bed in my yard as water hemlock. From what I have read on-line, this is a very poisonous plant. Supposedly the stalks remain poisonous even when dead. My plants are quite bulky, and would fill at least a few garbage cans if cut down. Can you advise me on how to safely deal with these plants?
- I live in Mapleton. I have been reading about the James Pecan Tree, which is supposed to mature by September 1st and be okay in zone 5. What do you think about my trying to grow it here? How do they do?
- What are the differences and advantages or disadvantages of soil amendments? Specifically Perlite (expanded silicous rock), Vermiculite (expanded mica), Utelite (expanded shale).