Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
What is a good fertilizer schedule?
Rate This FAQ
Fertilizer application frequency depends on the type of fertilizer, (slow-release, or quick) the soil type and grass type. You should follow the manufacturer's label on the bag for a suggested application timing. Less than recommended rates can be applied with adequate results unless the fertilizer contains an herbicide, fungicide or insecticide. If it contains any of these, then label rates must be applied or you will have poor control of pests.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- The leaves on my snowball bush are withered and the flowers almost nonexistant. The neighboring lilac doesn't look to good either. What could be causing this problem.
- I have a small backyard that has a house on the west and north side, a cinder block wall on the east side and a large tree shading a portion on the south side. Due to the high sides of our yard, we tried some part shade/part sun plants last year. But they got blasted in the heat. Our yard doesn't get 10 hours of sunlight but it gets very hot. Can I sucessfully grow a vegetable garden in part of it up against the houses and plant something along the cinder block wall - preferably grapes or raspberries, or other covering plants (can be non-fruit). Can you recommend a plant we can grow along the wall, both in the shaded and sunny parts? Any recomendations for better use of the space?
- Last fall I bought a daffodil mixture. They bloomed great this spring, but in October they have all started to come up. What's going on?
- I have a large, old walnut tree in my front yard. The bark on the east/northeast side of the tree is separating from the trunk. Is this a sign of disease or other problems? And can I peel the bark off the tree or will that hurt the tree?
- I have an older crab apple tree that is focal point of my small yard. About 3 years ago the leaves became infected with powdery mildew. I have been told to not do anything with this, as it will eventually go away and the tree will fine - but over the years it has gotten much worse each spring. There are only about 60% of the leaves that are starting to look healthy by mid-June. Over all, the leaves are withered and this year we have very few blossoms. Another problem: The tree also has four large limbs that come out of the trunk. I noticed that there seemed to be wood pulp inside a place where a branch was cut off years ago. I scooped out the pulp and found that some bug or other creature has created a cavity that goes 6” into the 10-12” diameter limb and a large man’s fist could easily fit into the hole that has been created. While inspecting the hole I discovered a ¼” or so hole in the very back of the cavity, but no sign of the culprit. The limb seems to be doing fine, as the leaves on the branches from this limb are in no better or worse shape than the rest of the tree. I had my tree pruned by a highly recommended person this spring, in hopes that this would help with my powdery mildew problem. I love my tree, what should I do next about my perpetual powdery mildew problem and the unknown culprit who is dinning on my tree limb?
- I have an 8 year old Norway Spruce. It has a section at the base where the needle grow is restricted and the stems look whitish. The rest of the tree has green plush growth and it is about 12 ft high now. It had this problem when I brought it home from the nursery but I thought it would snap out of it. What is this and is there anything I can do?
- Can Blenheim apricots be grown in Cache Valley? If so, what problems might I expect?
- I have a small strip (about 1-1 1/2 feet) in front of my brick house that needs to be separated from my front lawn. I would like to put bricks or something to keep the grass from coming through. What would you suggest to use to separate the two areas? What would you suggest to plant?