Question
Just moved to where we have a very large backyard. I want to plant a large variety of fruit trees, but I don't know what will grow well in this climate. What types of fruit grow best in the Salt Lake area? (eg peaches, apples, nectarines....?) And which kind of each fruit would you suggest? I'm also new to this, so where should I go to buy the trees and find info on how to grow them correctly?
Answer(s)
That is a great question and very broad question with many variables and factors to consider. One of my first suggestions is to have a basic soil analysis done. This will help determine your pH, soil texture, salinity and nutrient levels. Utah State University Analytical Laboratories has this service.I highly recommend the initial $14 routine soil test before spending lots of money on trees and soil amendments. Their website with the questionnaire and soil sample information is at http://www.usual.usu.edu/ and the soil submission form can be found at http://www.usual.usu.edu/forms/soilform.pdf .
The next thing to realize is that fruit trees require some investment in time and labor for maintaining good health and productivity of fruit. New trees may take several years before they will begin to bear fruit. Many fruit trees can grow in the Salt Lake area and the types of trees you want depend on what fruits you like to eat, pest management for common pests, self-fruitful varieties, planting compatible varieties for pollination, water or irrigation for trees, training and pruning trees. I'll just give you a few examples of common pest problems (all manageable with time and effort) with fruit trees. Which also begs the question of wanting to be chemical free or using chemicals to control pests.
Cherries (Sweet and Tart) - Western Cherry Fruit Fly
Peaches - Peach Twig Borer and Peach Crown Borer
Apples - Codling Moth
A great resource about orchard pest management is the Utah Home Orchard Pest Management Guide available online at http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/home-orchard-guide.pdf
For peaches and nectarines, there is an online guide to varieties at http://www.larrysagers.com/weeklyarticles/recommended_peach_and_nectarine_varieties_for_northern_utah.html
Even with a large backyard, planting apples trees with dwarf or semidwarf rootstock is recommended. This will make training, pruning, harvesting trees much easier for the life of the tree. Here is a link to varieties of apples for northern Utah by our Horticulture Agent in Weber County. http://extension.usu.edu/htm/news/articleID=1936
As for planting fruit trees, as with all trees, a common mistake is planting too deep. Almost all fruit trees are budded or grafted onto rootstock. An old habit which is not longer encourage is to bury the graft. The ideal way to plant all trees is to find the root flare or collar where the trunk is differentiated from the roots, and the root collar should be at the level or slightly above the soil. The means the hole you dig should be shallow and wide to encourage good establishment of the root system.
Lots to think about, and for a successful home orchard, please read through some of this material. Feel free to contact me if you have any further questions.
Other Questions In This Topic
- I have a large, old walnut tree in my front yard. The bark on the east/northeast side of the tree is separating from the trunk. Is this a sign of disease or other problems? And can I peel the bark off the tree or will that hurt the tree?
- Where can I buy a kumquat tree in Utah? Will it survive living outdoors in SLC?
- I planted some fruit trees fall 2009 and am noticing tons of fruit on them already in this first year. I've heard I should pick them all and wait until the second year to let them mature. Is this right?
- We have a flowering Japanese Cherry tree that has bloomed beautiful pink flowers until last spring and this spring. Half of it is white flowers and half is very small pink buds. What has happened? It is about 15 years old.
- Some of the bottom leafs on my tomato plants have turned brown and are dying. I have lost one plant and it looks like another may go soon. I am watering three to four times per week and I have been putting a liquid fertilizer on the plants about once a week. Any ideas about what I may be doing wrong?
- I'm planning on using Imidan on my fruit trees. I would like to use a sprayer, but all the application information I've found is in lbs per acre. How much Imidan should I use per gallon.
- Our new home came with some juvenile trees and sapplings planted very closely together in one corner of the yard. Who can identify these trees for us, so we know which ones (if any) to remove/relocate?
- Hi, I have a lot of two year hybrid poplars that we've planted for a wind break and the leaves near the trunks are beginning to turn yellow. I've read that this can be because of lack of water or too much water or not enough fertilizer. It's July and we water them every day because of the 90+ temps. Any suggestions?