Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I live in salt lake city, and have very hard rocky soil. I would like to plant a few varieties of trees for shade and decor (like to enjoy them in my own lifetime)I realize I'll need to excavate for good soil and root ball. Any suggestions?
Rate This FAQ
There are several trees that can be planted in Salt Lake City, in fact more trees are here now, then when the pioneers arrived. Ideally for successful tree planting and survival you need to know a few things about your site. One is the pH of your soil. Generally, our soils are alkaline, that is have a high pH. To be certain of your soil pH, texture, salinity, potassium and phosphorous levels you can submit a soil sample to our USU Analytical Labs. The basic soil test is $14 which is a worthwhile investment considering trees in nurseries can cost up to several hundred dollars. Excavating is not recommended, as most tree roots are growing in the top 12 to 18 inches of soil, and the deeper you dig into your soil, you are encountering parent mineral material that is very low in organic matter and microorganisms, that is what plants need to grow.
For selecting trees, it is good to know your site. Soil is definitely one of the considerations, but also sun exposure, other landscape features (patio, deck, lawn area, overhead power lines) that may compete or interfere with the growth of the tree, as well as personal preference for evergreen or deciduous trees.
There is a great resource available online by our USU Extension Forester, Dr. Mike Kuhns on Selecting and Planting Landscape Trees. http://extension.usu.edu/forestry/HomeTown/HO_TreeSelection.htm
There is good information on planting as well as a many species of trees listed with their cultural and species characteristics that fit your specific site.
If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact me.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- Our home was built in 1998 and we are the second owners. The first owners landscaped the yard, but didn't consider that the trees, shrubs, etc. would grow. We have trees that were planted too close to the sidewalk and shrubs that were planted too close to the house. They are beautiful, but too close. We also have a large cottonwood tree in the backyard that provides good shade, but its root are now pushing above the ground. I think I know the answer, but is there a good way to redo the landscaping without removing all of the good features at once?
- I live in riverton and want to plant triple crown blackberries and dwarf northblue blueberries. Do you have any suggestions or help?
- I have a stand of Gambel Oaks in my yard, I would like to leave the oaks, but fill in about 12 inches deep to level the area out. Will this damage the oaks? Is there any recommended ground cover to place in the area?
- When do I spray my apple tree so my apples dont have worms in them and with what pesticide do I spray them?
- Can we use rabbit droppings in our vegetable & flower gardens or is the acidity too high? How does it compare to manure?
- JUST SENT A EMAIL, I GUESS I CAN'T ATTACH A PICTURE OF THE TREE I'M AKING ABOUT, HOW CAN I SEND YOU A PICTURE OF IT? I DON'T KNOW WHAT KIND OF TREES THESE ARE.
- The leaves of our sweet cherry tree have yellowed and our falling off at an alarming rate. This started two weeks ago and in another week ALL the leaves will have dropped except for a few on the tips of new growth (i.e. water spouts). This happened last year to two of our other sweet cherry trees. They did NOT come back this spring. Dead! The trees are 25 years old and pruned yearly. I've been fairly diligent about spraying (dormant oil, fruit fly, and borer) for the six years I've owned the house. At times they have shown signs of borer (or other insect) damage since there has been gumming spots on the trees. When I bought the house I removed the grass around the trees (not quite to the drip line,but a about four feet from the trunk. The trees get water from the lawn sprinklers, but I regularly (every 2-3 weeks) let a hose run water around the tree and soak in for a couple hours. When I fertilize the garden (commercial IFA garden chemical fertilizer)I toss a couple handfuls at the base of each tree. So some fertilizer about twice a year. The soil around the house is mixed. I would guess that most of it is moderate clay. We live on the edge of the bench not far from the mouth of Hobble Creek Canyon. If I had just walked into the yard, I would guess that the trees were getting too much water (yellowing leaves) instead of not enough water (dry crisping leaves). But I really don't water the trees that much and not at all in the last couple weeks when this yellow & leaf drop started. My only other clue is some leaves have brown spots. About the time we bought the house, a neighbor had a cherry tree drop most of its leaves and they were told (USU ext?) that it was a fungus; they sprayed and saved the tree. They've moved so I can't ask them specifics. I don't remember if the leaves had yellowed and then dropped. Too long ago. Help?
- I am trying to plant a "microforest" in my yard (.25 acre). I am looking for trees that will do well planted fairly close together (8' or less), evergreen and deciduous, to form a woodland-type setting. I also need bushes that can grow on a mild slope (drip irrigation) in this same location. I am particularly interested in dwarf, narrow, columnar evergreens. I've seen some in landscaping (I refer to them as Charlie Brown Christmas trees) around Park City and in Idaho that seem to stay in a very small footprint (4-5'?). But I haven't found a nursery that knows what I'm talking about. Any help would be appreciated. I have started with a clump birch, a japanese maple, and a bakeri spruce (must be a dwarf as it says it will only grow to ten feet (6' wide).