Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I have been spraying Captan on my fruit trees for several years. This year I discovered at IFA that Captan is no longer allowed, so I purchased malathion (57%). Is there any problem spraying the malathion over the Captan? It has been three weeks since the last spray of Captan. I'd like to spray tomorrow (7/30), so it would be helpful to know as soon as possible.
Rate This FAQ
Captan is a fungicide and primarily for control of apple scab, black rot, lotch, Botrytis blossom infection. Malathion is one of several
insecticides used for control of codling moth. So they have very different functions - malathion is not a fungicide. I have copied a section below about Captan which states it should not be used with lime or other alkaline materials or with oil within 4 days. Malathion is often prepared in an oil solution so caution should be used if timing is too close to last Captan spray. My question for you is what are you treating your fruit trees for??
It is best to use an appropriate chemical when you have identified the pest, generally we do not recommend spraying as a preventative.
For more information on apple codling moth, here is the link to USU Fact
Sheet on codling moth
There also is information at USU Extension website for more information on Integrated Pest Management is a strategic approach to plant and animal care that seeks to suppress pest populations while minimizing pest control costs and environmental disruption.
Captan 50W or 80W formulations are used at 6.0-8.0 lb/A of Captan 50W or 3.75-5.0 lb/A of Captan 80W, for control of diseases on apple; other formulations should be used according to label direction. On apples Captan has proven effective in the control of apple scab, black rot, Brooks spot, Botryosphaeria rot, blotch, bitter rot, Botrytis blossom infection, fly speck, and sooty blotch. Captan=s residual life is elatively short, consequently, sooty blotch, fly speck, and fruit rot control may not be satisfactory where sprays are discontinued more than 3 weeks prior to harvest. The higher indicated rates are for severe summer disease pressure.
Captan may produce frogeye-like spotting of the foliage of Delicious, Stayman, and Winesap early in the season. The small spots do not enlarge and are no cause for alarm. The inclusion of sulfur in the spray mixture may increase this type of injury.
Captan should not be used with lime or other alkaline materials. Do not use it with oil or within four days of an oil spray. Do not use in
combination with EC formulations of parathion. Captan should be used with caution in bloom sprays, especially on varieties which are hard to pollinate (e.g. Red Delicious). Captan has been shown to severely reduce pollen viability for 24 - 48 hours after application.
Although new Captan labels permit application to apples up to the day of harvest, Captan has a 4-day re-entry interval which makes pre-harvest application more restrictive. A label exception is made for the last 48 hours of the re-entry interval during which workers may enter the treated area to perform hand labor or other tasks involving contact with anything that has been treated, without time limit, if they wear ll of the following: coveralls, waterproof gloves, shoes and socks, and protective eye wear. http://www.caf.wvu.edu/kearneysville/profile/critfung.htm
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I am wondering if the worms in cherries are safe to eat? They are so small it doesn't really bother me to eat them but I don't want to if they could make me sick or continue to live and grow inside me.
- How can I keep my pears and apples worm free?
- I'm trying to identify the variety of peach my father has growing in his yard. It had a medium-sized fruit which ripened the first part of September, had exceptionally sweet yellow flesh, was a freestone variety with a red center around the pit. Can you help me?
- We bought an apple tree to plant on arbor day,but still haven't got to planting it. I've tried to keep it watered and in the sun, but the poor thing is struggling. The leaves appear to be dying on the ends. Will it still survive if we get it in the ground? Also can it be planted in an area that gets a lot of water? It is a Braeburn tree.
- Do you have an email list I can subscribe to that informs me when to spray my fruit trees?
- What is the best way to tell when a d'Anjou pear is ready to harvest?
- I would like to plant 2 plum trees and would like to make sure they have sufficient pollination. I would definately like a Italian Plum (Prune) and some other plum that is freestone and good fresh eating with a great flavor. I would like a Satsuma but have read that the european plum and the Japanese plum varieties are not compatible as far as pollination. Would the Santa Rosa be a good substitute for the Satsuma?
- I want to plant 4 fruit trees along the border of my garden. How much space must I give each tree between the brick wall border and between each tree? I am not sure if I should plant a semi-dwarf or dwarf tree for apricots and peaches but I would like a regular sized apple tree. Also, can Gala Apple trees grow here in Utah?