Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I have been spraying Captan on my fruit trees for several years. This year I discovered at IFA that Captan is no longer allowed, so I purchased malathion (57%). Is there any problem spraying the malathion over the Captan? It has been three weeks since the last spray of Captan. I'd like to spray tomorrow (7/30), so it would be helpful to know as soon as possible.
Rate This FAQ
Captan is a fungicide and primarily for control of apple scab, black rot, lotch, Botrytis blossom infection. Malathion is one of several
insecticides used for control of codling moth. So they have very different functions - malathion is not a fungicide. I have copied a section below about Captan which states it should not be used with lime or other alkaline materials or with oil within 4 days. Malathion is often prepared in an oil solution so caution should be used if timing is too close to last Captan spray. My question for you is what are you treating your fruit trees for??
It is best to use an appropriate chemical when you have identified the pest, generally we do not recommend spraying as a preventative.
For more information on apple codling moth, here is the link to USU Fact
Sheet on codling moth
There also is information at USU Extension website for more information on Integrated Pest Management is a strategic approach to plant and animal care that seeks to suppress pest populations while minimizing pest control costs and environmental disruption.
Captan 50W or 80W formulations are used at 6.0-8.0 lb/A of Captan 50W or 3.75-5.0 lb/A of Captan 80W, for control of diseases on apple; other formulations should be used according to label direction. On apples Captan has proven effective in the control of apple scab, black rot, Brooks spot, Botryosphaeria rot, blotch, bitter rot, Botrytis blossom infection, fly speck, and sooty blotch. Captan=s residual life is elatively short, consequently, sooty blotch, fly speck, and fruit rot control may not be satisfactory where sprays are discontinued more than 3 weeks prior to harvest. The higher indicated rates are for severe summer disease pressure.
Captan may produce frogeye-like spotting of the foliage of Delicious, Stayman, and Winesap early in the season. The small spots do not enlarge and are no cause for alarm. The inclusion of sulfur in the spray mixture may increase this type of injury.
Captan should not be used with lime or other alkaline materials. Do not use it with oil or within four days of an oil spray. Do not use in
combination with EC formulations of parathion. Captan should be used with caution in bloom sprays, especially on varieties which are hard to pollinate (e.g. Red Delicious). Captan has been shown to severely reduce pollen viability for 24 - 48 hours after application.
Although new Captan labels permit application to apples up to the day of harvest, Captan has a 4-day re-entry interval which makes pre-harvest application more restrictive. A label exception is made for the last 48 hours of the re-entry interval during which workers may enter the treated area to perform hand labor or other tasks involving contact with anything that has been treated, without time limit, if they wear ll of the following: coveralls, waterproof gloves, shoes and socks, and protective eye wear. http://www.caf.wvu.edu/kearneysville/profile/critfung.htm
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- Our bosic pear tree bears lots of sweet juicy fruit however they have an area around the core that seems to be gritty which makes canning difficult after cutting that part of the fruit out there isn't much left. How can we correct this problem with out fruit.
- Can we grow the new Honey Crisp apple here?
- Two Questions, is Malathion the best spray to use on apple and pear trees and is there a way I could get a list of professionals who spray fruit trees?
- An ornamental cherry tree that has been planted for 3 years suddenly dropped all of it's leaves. Leaves were green one day; gone the next. A neighbor verified some of the branches are dead (using a scratch test); others are still green. Tree has been watered by sprinkler, also deep watered with slow hose twice during the summer. The base of the tree does not seem to have any borer damage. Tree is in full sun. Any ideas?
- When I first moved here, my peach tree was unhealthy and barely alive. With regular irrigation from the water that comes down from Cedar Breaks National Monument and all the minerals, it has become very healthy with good fruit. Now it looks like it used to - fruit, but hardly any leaves. Could it be the drastic changes in weather one week in April after Easter - 75 degrees one day, gale force winds the next, then freezing rain and snow, all during bloom time?
- We bought an apple tree to plant on arbor day,but still haven't got to planting it. I've tried to keep it watered and in the sun, but the poor thing is struggling. The leaves appear to be dying on the ends. Will it still survive if we get it in the ground? Also can it be planted in an area that gets a lot of water? It is a Braeburn tree.
- Our 4 year old peach tree is blossoming and we noticed a "web" full of caterpillars in one of the branch forks. Several of the 1/2 to 3/4 inch larvae were on other branches as well. EEWWW! What do I do?
- What is the best way to tell when a d'Anjou pear is ready to harvest?