Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
Where can I find some info on two things. Thing 1; Why can't I get a decent peach from growing a tree from a seed? and Thing 2; "Which came first the chicken or the peach" or "How does grafting work?"
Rate This FAQ
Most fruit trees are grafted. Grafting fruit trees enables you to clone the commercial qualities of a particular fruit variety on another tree -
whereas the quality of the fruit from trees grown from seed can be highly variable.
Also, grafted trees come into production much earlier than trees grown from seeds - they usually bear fruit within 2-3 years, whereas in the case of trees grown from seed you have to wait 5-10 years before harvesting. So planting a pit or apple core in the ground usually will most likely not produce the type of fruit you desire. Rootstock are propagated that can tolerate a range of soil properties, environmental and climatic conditions that the variety of peach you desire if grown as a single tree may not be able to tolerate. The science and art of grafting is putting a desirable variety of fruit onto a rootstock that will have a fair chance of getting established.
So that peach pit may not be able to grow and establish in our tough soils and climate. Grafting works by matching the tissues of the scion wood to the rootstock and eventually they become a full graft.
Some species of fruit are commonly grown on their own roots; new plants are propagated by rooting, layering, or modern tissue-culture techniques. In these cases there are may be no great advantages to using a special rootstock or improved rootstocks are not available. Fig, filbert, olive, pomegranate, gooseberry, bramble, and other fruits are commonly grown without any special rootstock.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I have been spraying Captan on my fruit trees for several years. This year I discovered at IFA that Captan is no longer allowed, so I purchased malathion (57%). Is there any problem spraying the malathion over the Captan? It has been three weeks since the last spray of Captan. I'd like to spray tomorrow (7/30), so it would be helpful to know as soon as possible.
- Do you have an email list I can subscribe to that informs me when to spray my fruit trees?
- We recently replaced our driveway and it now within a foot of two 10 year old Linden trees. Are the trees too close to the driveway? Will the root system eventually break up the concrete?
- I am wondering if the worms in cherries are safe to eat? They are so small it doesn't really bother me to eat them but I don't want to if they could make me sick or continue to live and grow inside me.
- An ornamental cherry tree that has been planted for 3 years suddenly dropped all of it's leaves. Leaves were green one day; gone the next. A neighbor verified some of the branches are dead (using a scratch test); others are still green. Tree has been watered by sprinkler, also deep watered with slow hose twice during the summer. The base of the tree does not seem to have any borer damage. Tree is in full sun. Any ideas?
- When shall I prune my fruit trees?
- We have a horrible locust infestation, which I can't find any news about - all of the scrub oak are defoliated. Is this common? Will the trees recover- new leaves this year? I have found them on fruit trees and washed them off - are they just passing through? Any other info on them?
- I have purchased a few acres in summit county at about 9500 feet elevation. The property is in the middle of a meadow, with no natural trees. I would like to plant some evergreen seedlings. Will they grow? I am wondering why the meadow would not already have these types of trees, if they would in fact grow there. Can you recommend the best type of tree for success, or am I better off saving my money? There are evergreens growing all around the meadow a few hundred yards away. Thanks.