Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
What should I do to prepare my lawn for winter?
Rate This FAQ
The cooler temperatures have probably strengthened your lawn after the hot, dry summer. Grass color and density have likely improved. Consider these tips to enhance the grass’s recovery and to prepare your lawn for winter. Keep in mind that the things you do now for your lawn play a key role in how well it will fare during next summer’s hot, dry months.
Stop your lawn irrigation. As cooler weather intensifies, grass does not need as much irrigation as it did during the heat of the summer. Now is the perfect opportunity to conserve water. A great deal of water can be wasted in the fall because irrigation controllers are not adjusted for cooler temperatures.
Prepare for the final mowing. As the weather gets cooler, your lawn will grow more slowly. At some point soon, you will perform your last mowing of the growing season. This is a critical time in the life and health of your lawn. A healthy mowing height of 2 1/2 –3 1/2 inches promotes root growth and stress tolerance during the summer, but your final mowing height of the season should be much shorter. A mowing height of 1 to 1 1/2 inches will reduce the chances of snow mold disease. Grass blades left long over the winter can lie over and increase humidity beneath snow cover. If there is lengthy snow cover, snow mold disease may occur.
Apply your last fertilization. After your final mowing is the best time to apply your last fertilization of the growing season. Nitrogen is of primary concern. Following the last mowing, apply 1 pound of quick-release nitrogen fertilizer per thousand square feet of lawn. It is important to use a quick-release nitrogen source so that grass can take it up before going dormant when the cold weather hits. This is probably the most critical fertilization of the entire growing season and should not be missed. Research has shown that this late fall fertilization provides the most benefit and drought tolerance to the lawn the following summer. These simple steps will ensure that your lawn makes it through the winter and is healthy and strong next summer.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I want to switch my current lawn (bluegrass with some bermudagrass infestation) to a low-water and low-growth grass. I have a front lawn that's in shade most of the day, and the back lawn is mostly in sun. Will dwarf tall fescue work in this situation? Do you have any recommendations for the best DTF variety(s) to use? Also, will the bermudagrass be able to survive on less water and compete with the fescue?
- I live at an elevation of 6000ft. I am West of Cedar City in the mountains. I would like to know, what is the best low water and high traffic grass I should plant. I would like the type of grass that will stay green as early and as long as possible as well. Thank You Also, any good shade varieties?
- Is There Any Way To Eliminate Borers That Leave What Looks Like Sawdust At The Base Of Our Aspen Trees?
- I have a curly willow that was topped about four years ago. Now it needs to be trimmed. Can I cut the branches back to where they were cut last?
- We live in West Jordan in an area with very clay soil. We would like to plant some low-lying evergreen shrubs in a narrow strip between our RV pad and a short vinyl fence. Do you have any plant recommendations that will work in our soil and don't require a lot of maintenence?
- We have a 3 year old maple tree that seemed to be doing great, but never lost it's leaves last fall. It showed no sign of life this spring and we were ready to replace it. A week or so ago it started sending out leaves at it's crotch. I'm pretty sure the top of the tree is dead. Do we cut it down to it's crotch (losing at least 8 feet of branches)? Will it regain a shape and will it be strong enough to survive the wind? What should we do with this tree?!
- What herbicide/killer do we use to eradicate "salt cedar" & cheat grass??
- How can I conserve water and still have a nice lawn?