Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
Do you have tips on managing grasshoppers in my yard?
Rate This FAQ
During the current drought cycle, grasshoppers have become a common occurrence in the home yard. There are hundreds of species of grasshoppers in North America, but only a few of them cause economic damage to plants. The short-horned or Acridid grasshoppers are the primary culprits. The slant-faced grasshoppers (angled faces, long, thin bodies) feed primarily on grasses; spur-throated grasshoppers (projection under their throat) feed primarily on herbaceous plants; and banded-winged grasshoppers (brightly colored hind wings that rattle when they fly) feed on both grasses and herbaceous plants.
Most problems occur in home yards when large populations of grasshoppers migrate from surrounding open fields, range and other less disturbed grasshopper egg-laying sites. Eggs are laid in undisturbed ground in the summer and fall, then over-winter. Eggs hatch the following spring, and emerging young (nymphs) feed on green vegetation. When field vegetation begins to dry, large flushes of grasshoppers migrate and overrun nearby succulent landscapes and gardens. The best way to combat grasshoppers in these circumstances is to work with neighbors to coordinate treatment. Consider these tips.
A number of insecticide choices are available to kill grasshoppers. They include acephate (Orthene), azadirachtin (Neem), bifenthrin (Talstar), carbaryl (Sevin), cyfluthrin (Tempo), diazinon, malathion, permethrin (Astro) and pyrethrin. Most of these are not labeled for food crops, so be sure to read and follow label directions carefully.
Two biological insecticides are effective on grasshoppers. Beauveria bassiana is an insect-attacking fungus. Nosema locustae is a protozoan that, upon ingestion and sporulation in the gut, infects fat tissues of the grasshopper. Nosema is slower acting than conventional insecticides and can take 4-6 weeks to kill grasshoppers.
Insecticide baits offer a longer-lasting option for grasshopper control. Baits formulated with grain to attract feeding grasshoppers include Nosema locustae (Nolo Bait, Semaspore) and carbaryl.
Grasshoppers are easier to kill in their early nymphal stages. Older nymphs and adults are the most voracious feeders and cause the main injury to plants. If grasshoppers move to your property from surrounding land, place a 6-8 foot band of bait around the property border and into the adjacent field. Do this in late spring to early summer when populations of small nymphs begin to increase. To maintain active insecticide, re-treat every two to three weeks while grasshopper populations are increasing (during egg hatch), and especially following heavy irrigation or rain.
Other management strategies include spot or target spraying nymphs when they are seen feeding in the yard, or treating adjacent vacant lots or fields that have nymph infestations.
Remember that not all grasshoppers will cause harm and low numbers can be tolerated. Most insecticides are not selective (Nosema locustae is an exception), and beneficial insects and spiders will be killed as well as pests. For effective grasshopper suppression, it is important to start early when grasshoppers are small and to maintain control until eggs have hatched and new waves of nymphs are no longer detected. Once flying adults are on the scene, it is too late for effective control that year.
For more information, visit http://extension.usu.edu/insect/fs/grassho3.htm to view “Grasshoppers in Utah: General Biology” by Edward W. Evans or visithttp://extension.usu.edu/insect/fs/grasshop.htm to see “Grasshoppers and their Control,” by Alan H. Roe.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- when should i apply a preemregent to control the weed oxalis that is in my lawn? can you reccomend a particular product?
- How do I get rid of wild morning glory?
- I have a son that lives in west Eagle Mt. We Put in sod for a lawn about two years ago and for two seasons it did great. Half of it is now dead and the other half is struggling. Prior to putting down sod, the ground was thoroughly tilled and lots of compost material was added (the kind that is made available in some green recycling yards and mixed with treated effluent from the sewage treatment plant.) Nitrogen was also added to the soil and the lawn was watered regularly. What has happened and what can I do to get a good lawn here?
- What's killing Spruce and Pine trees in Utah?
- I am in West Valley city, and for the past 3 years my grass has looked really good, and last year, the entire front park lane died, and I now have large areas in the front yard that are dead as well. I have heard of grubs, however I have no idea how to identify what is going on with the grass or how to treat it. You can pull up larges patches of grass easily, there don't appear to be any roots in some areas and I would like my grass to be pretty again. What can you recommend?
- How do I prevent aspen sprouts from coming up in my lawn?
- Why are my older pine and spruce trees dropping their needles?
- I wanted to find a herbiside for "Puncturevine" and/or "Tribulus Terrestris"...but found no place on your website to look for specific weed(s) and/or the best method to control and eliminiate them. Can you provide me with assistance on this issue?