Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
I have tall thin Junipers in my backyard. They resemble a Hollywood Juniper but I am not sure of their species. They are 25 years old and have begun to look like they are dying, the needles are turning brown and falling off. Is there anything I can do to save them?
Rate This FAQ
Junipers are some of our most hardy landscape plants, but can develop problems when the weather is very hot (such as it has been this summer!) I suspect your junipers need more water. They are mature trees now,
and their root systems are probably quite extensive. Realize that they may have extended their roots outwards at least 25 feet (same as their height).So, if you have be watering only as much as usual, and these trees are
surrounded by lawn, they are probably heat stressed and need more water.
I usually recommend watering trees extra during the hot summer months, making sure to deliver the water over most of the root zone, applying the water slowly enough so that the soil is wet 12 to 18 inches deep. This deeper soil moisture will be available to the trees but not to the lawn grass, so you can be sure that the trees will be able to take it up. Soaker hoses are great for this purpose, since they emit water very slowly and the water can percolate down into the soil without running off down grade.
When junipers are stressed, they are very attractive to spidermites. You can check for spider mites by holding a white piece of paper under a branch, striking the branch sharply, and catching the "dust" onto the paper. Watch the dust a moment. If pieces of "dust" start crawling around, the tree is infested with spider mites. To control spider mites without significantly harming the beneficial mites and insects that prey on them, try spraying the trees with a sharp stream of water every few days. This, plus the extra water you will provide, will probably help the trees regain their vigor. A shot of nitrogen fertilizer over their root zone would probably help, too. Apply the fertilizer before doing the deep watering so that it reaches the deeper tree roots (and won't be "stolen" by the lawn grass).
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- Why do lilacs do so well?
- What herbicide/killer do we use to eradicate "salt cedar" & cheat grass??
- How invasive are globe willows? Also, what is the distance they should be from the septic system and water lines, etc?
- We have a lot of scrub oak around our home. In some spots we have some ground cover and other area are bare. We would like to add a nice ground cover to mix in with the oak in these bare areas. Do you have suggestions for ground cover? Also, in one particular area, we have a large amount of grass growing in the ground cover surrounding the scrub oak. What is the best way to get rid of this grass? Is there a ground cover that can overtake the grass?
- When do I spray my lawn for weeds?
- We live in Perry, Utah. We are getting our yard prepared for sprinklers and grass. We are doing a lot of rock in areas, so we are not watering as much grass etc. We are wondering about the grass itself. At this point we would like to put sod down, but we are wondering what type of grass we should be looking for that is heat and drought tolerant and that will do well all year long in the area where we live. Can you suggest a particular sod or seed, and a place to obtain it, that might work well for us?
- My vinca minor has numerous yellow leaves this year. My husband keeps dumping water on it, thinking it needs more since it is yellow and at some instances brown. Are we watering it too much, or is it missing a nutrient that needs to be added? HELP!
- We will need to establish some native plants. How much do we have to water Greasewood, Four-wing Saltbush, Rabbitbrush, Green Ephedra, and Spiny Hopsage in #10 containers? We also have two trees, a 5'Utah Juniper and 3' tall Gambel Oaks to water. I understand it best to lightly water for a year and then wean them off in the wet season. Is this correct?