Question
I have tall thin Junipers in my backyard. They resemble a Hollywood Juniper but I am not sure of their species. They are 25 years old and have begun to look like they are dying, the needles are turning brown and falling off. Is there anything I can do to save them?
Answer(s)
Junipers are some of our most hardy landscape plants, but can develop problems when the weather is very hot (such as it has been this summer!) I suspect your junipers need more water. They are mature trees now,
and their root systems are probably quite extensive. Realize that they may have extended their roots outwards at least 25 feet (same as their height).So, if you have be watering only as much as usual, and these trees are
surrounded by lawn, they are probably heat stressed and need more water.
I usually recommend watering trees extra during the hot summer months, making sure to deliver the water over most of the root zone, applying the water slowly enough so that the soil is wet 12 to 18 inches deep. This deeper soil moisture will be available to the trees but not to the lawn grass, so you can be sure that the trees will be able to take it up. Soaker hoses are great for this purpose, since they emit water very slowly and the water can percolate down into the soil without running off down grade.
When junipers are stressed, they are very attractive to spidermites. You can check for spider mites by holding a white piece of paper under a branch, striking the branch sharply, and catching the "dust" onto the paper. Watch the dust a moment. If pieces of "dust" start crawling around, the tree is infested with spider mites. To control spider mites without significantly harming the beneficial mites and insects that prey on them, try spraying the trees with a sharp stream of water every few days. This, plus the extra water you will provide, will probably help the trees regain their vigor. A shot of nitrogen fertilizer over their root zone would probably help, too. Apply the fertilizer before doing the deep watering so that it reaches the deeper tree roots (and won't be "stolen" by the lawn grass).
Other Questions In This Topic
- I have a good number of my lawn customers that have a large amount of burmuda grass coming into their bluegrass lawns. I have use for 3 years a product call turflon ester, A Monterey product, containing Triclopyr at 61.6% at up to double the rate. I have been applying 3 applications per season with a backpack sprayer to spot spray the patches in the bluegrass. I am disappointed in my results. Please reply as to what to do to eradicate this problem as I think that is is very critical. I see it in most of the approx. 70 lawns that I treat. Where is it coming from??
- How do I keep stray animals out of my yard?
- I am buying a new house in Salt Lake County, and the entire back yard is weeds. I want to put in a garden towards the back and fill in the rest with grass. What is the best way to kill the weeds completely, without killing the new grass and affecting the garden?
- why wont my lawnmower engine run without a blade on it how do i make run
- I have a lumpy yard. I have used a roller to flatten it with litte success I have also aerated and put seed as well and fertalizer down. What else can be done beforeI have to bring in a bobcat and start over?
- Do you have information on soil testing?
- I need to know what is best for killing vines? I have a fence full and I would like to get rid of them.
- I've neglected to do my "last mow" up to this point. We've already had several nights of light frost. My grass is long but I worry about causing even more damage by mowing at this late juncture, mid-November. Are there any risks to mowing grass after the first few frosts?
