Question
Do you have tips for newly planted trees?
Answer(s)
Many trees were planted in Utah this spring. Most trees do a good job taking care of themselves after planting; however, trees still need care and assistance to ensure their quality and health.
Consider these tips when caring for newly planted trees.
* Water trees thoroughly at planting time, then once a week (adjusted for significant rain) through the first growing season. Water more often on sandy soils or during very hot, dry weather. A light sprinkling that only wets the soil surface is not enough. Water must penetrate 6 to 12 inches to reach most of the tree's roots and to encourage deep rooting. If irrigation water is limited this summer due to drought, be sure to give adequate water to your trees or they may decline in health and die. Lawns that die due to lack of water can be replaced fairly quickly; trees cannot.
* Stake newly planted trees that are more than 2 to 4 feet tall if they are at risk of catching wind. Trees should be staked loosely since some bending is needed for the trunk to develop naturally. Anything that wraps around the trunk, such as wires or cords, should be well padded to avoid damage to the tree's bark and outer growing layers. Stakes should be removed after one or two years. If roots are not well established by then, it is likely they will not become established at all.
* Mulch newly planted trees and established trees. This is one of the best ways to ensure a tree's health. A 4-foot or larger circle of wood chips, compost, or other coarse organic mulch 4 inches deep helps control weeds, keeps roots moist, reduces soil compaction, and keeps the mower away from the tree's trunk. If turf is already established around the tree, place the mulch directly on the turf. Any grass that is not shaded out by the mulch can easily be pulled.
* Do not fertilize new trees. Fertilization is not necessary for most trees and should not be done at planting time or for a year or two after planting. If fertilization is to be done, wait until twig growth has returned to a normal rate. This indicates that the tree is no longer suffering from transplanting shock. Use a complete, granular fertilizer spread on the surface under the tree's crown and water it in well. Avoid using weed-and-feed fertilizer-herbicide combinations around trees since they may cause damage to trees.
Follow these steps and keep an eye out for insect and disease problems and your new tree will give you years of enjoyment. For more on tree planting, care and selection see the web site at extension.usu.edu/coop/natres/forests/index.htm.
Other Questions In This Topic
- How do I know when to pick my fruit?
- I live in rose park and am selecting trees to add to my backyard. I have full sun and dark rich soil. I want a good shade tree but am not sure what would be best. I have been looking at different types of maple trees but am wary about their growth rates. Are there any trees that you could recommend?
- What trees are recommended for West Jordan (clay soil).
- We have a large pine tree in our yard that looks like it is dying. Can someone from extension come and look at it and tell me if it is dying or if this summer's heat has just caused it to withdraw in. It gets south and west sunlight all day long. Thanks
- I have an infestation of red ants in my retaining wall area where I also have plants. What is the best way to get rid of the red ants so I can weed etc. in that area?
- Do you have tips on managing grasshoppers in my yard?
- I am an architect, working with a client who wants to hydroseed a 2.5 acre parcel for use as a softball field. The area is currently planted in alfalfa. There will be some regrading (both cut and fill) of the field that will be required. The client would still like to hydroseed this year, likely near the end of September. Do we need to call for the alfalfa to be treated with a herbicide? If so, what is the process, and what herbicide should be used? Is there a waiting period between application of the herbicide and the hydroseeding? Must the herbicide be applied to the above-grade plants, or can the site first be cleared, then the herbicide applied to the gound and roots?
- I have three large Austrian Pine trees that I would like to xeriscape under. Do you have suggestions for low-water use plants that will grow in mostly shady conditions under pine trees?

