Ask a Question
Notify Me On Question Update
Email this Question
We live in West Jordan in an area with very clay soil. We would like to plant some low-lying evergreen shrubs in a narrow strip between our RV pad and a short vinyl fence. Do you have any plant recommendations that will work in our soil and don't require a lot of maintenence?
Rate This FAQ
Probably the toughest, most tolerant evergreen groundcover for such a site is juniper. One thing to watch out for is salt damage - avoid planting where de-icing salts will affect them.
Here are some of the more popular groundcover junipers:
Bar Harbor - stays very low, no taller than one foot and usually shorter. Blue-green in summer and purplish in winter.
Blue Chip - blue color in summer, tipped with purple in winter. Grows up to 10 inches tall and spreads wide.
Blue Mat - even shorter, reaching only 6 inches tall. Grows and spreads more slowly.
Emerald Spreader - very green, reaching only 7 inches tall. Doesn't spread evenly but will always be mounded taller in the center of the plant. Feathery texture.
Jade Spreader - green, low, growing into a dense mat. Turns dark purplish brown in winter.
Blue Rug - very flat form, silver-blue foliage tinged with purple in winter. Fairly fast growing.
Submit Your Suggestion
Other Questions In This Topic
- I live in Toquerville, 20 miles north of St. George, but still just as hot. I'd like to plant a medium to large tree in my front yard to shade the garage a little. There is no grass, no regular water. I will be watering it by hand/hose until it's established & then would like something that could tolerate hot, dry summers. Maybe the Texas Honey Mesquite or African Sumac. Do you have any suggestions for me?
- I am actually in Colorado, I am interested in the zone(s) in Eden. I am designing a landscape there and want to plant accordingly. I, also, am interested in a list of noxious plants, I'd like to avoid them. Thank You!
- I've neglected to do my "last mow" up to this point. We've already had several nights of light frost. My grass is long but I worry about causing even more damage by mowing at this late juncture, mid-November. Are there any risks to mowing grass after the first few frosts?
- We will need to establish some native plants. How much do we have to water Greasewood, Four-wing Saltbush, Rabbitbrush, Green Ephedra, and Spiny Hopsage in #10 containers? We also have two trees, a 5'Utah Juniper and 3' tall Gambel Oaks to water. I understand it best to lightly water for a year and then wean them off in the wet season. Is this correct?
- I have many large 20-25 feet scrub oak trees on my property. I would like to thin and prune them from the tops in order for them to look like the lower scrub oak I have seen in the area, about 10-15 feet. How low can I cut them from their tops without injuring them and what is the best time of year to do so?
- When is the best time to plant my grass in the spring? And how much fertilizer should I put on if any?
- I live in Riverton, and have areas in my lawn that are brown and sparse. I planted the lawn from seed, a Kentucky bluegrass blend I bought from a nursery, at least 10 years ago. It grows well in cooler weather, but by summer it looks dead in patches and is stiff, not soft lawn for the kids to play on. I would like to put down some patch seed, but don't know what kind to use and how is the best way to plant. Do I have to take out the old lawn or can I just sprinkle it on and cover with a little bit of soil. Also, is there any way to control the wide leaf weed that grows throughout my lawn as well as the entire neighborhood?
- My roses and boxelder trees have sticky (sap) leaves, what is causing this problem?