Question
What are the best cures for fungus type lawn diseases. We've tried infrequent deeper watering, which makes it worse, higher mowing in the hotter months, airation shoes, and everthing else suggested. We know we have clay under the topsoil.
Answer(s)
The best "cure" for fungus in turfgrass is prevention. By eliminating fungus's preferred habitat, you will eliminate the disease. All of the suggested cultural practices you mention (infrequent and deeper watering, aeration, and raising the mower deck in summer) are good practices. But there is one critical element you did not mention - thatch.
Thatch is the spongy layer of dead and dying leaf and root tissue layered on top of the soil but beneath the grass blades. If this layer is thicker than one-half inch, it may be allowing fungus to stay protected.
Diagnose your thatch problem by digging out a cross-section slice of lawn. Measure the distance between true soil and growing grass blades. If it is as thick as three-quarter inch, you have a problem.
To decrease thatch, core aerate twice annually. Be sure that the lawn is aerated very well - run the aerator over the same area twice (in two different directions, just as you would fertilize with a drop-spreader). You needn't remove the cores. Aerate in spring and again in late summer or fall.
Are you cycling your irrigation? If you have clay soil under topsoil, irrigate as if the entire soil profile was clay. This assures good water percolation through the root zone.
For more information about Basic Turfgrass Care, see the USU Extension publication with that title at http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG_517.pdf
Other Questions In This Topic
- What is killing all the scrub oak and where can I find information on how to save the scrub oak I have that has not been affected by it yet?
- What is killing the aspen trees in our forests?
- I made the mistake of fertilizing my newly planted trees. I had heard that the salty, clay soil I have needs iron useable for the trees. I used chelated. Anyway two of the trees, a candian red cherry and a zelkova tree have dry crispy leaves on the north side of the tree. We have had very hot, windy weather. I have two other canadian cherries that look fine.
- I'm getting ready to plant grass in my back yard either this fall or in the spring. I'm wondering if dwarf fescue will grow well here in Springville, or if I would be better off planting bluegrass? I had dewarf fescue in Southern California and really liked it.
- I live in Toquerville, 20 miles north of St. George, but still just as hot. I'd like to plant a medium to large tree in my front yard to shade the garage a little. There is no grass, no regular water. I will be watering it by hand/hose until it's established & then would like something that could tolerate hot, dry summers. Maybe the Texas Honey Mesquite or African Sumac. Do you have any suggestions for me?
- Do you have tips for success with African violets?
- How do I prune my roses?
- I am an architect, working with a client who wants to hydroseed a 2.5 acre parcel for use as a softball field. The area is currently planted in alfalfa. There will be some regrading (both cut and fill) of the field that will be required. The client would still like to hydroseed this year, likely near the end of September. Do we need to call for the alfalfa to be treated with a herbicide? If so, what is the process, and what herbicide should be used? Is there a waiting period between application of the herbicide and the hydroseeding? Must the herbicide be applied to the above-grade plants, or can the site first be cleared, then the herbicide applied to the gound and roots?
