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Directional Pruning
and Powerlines
By Mike Kuhns, Extension Forestry Specialist
One of the main reasons to prune trees is to remove branches and
twigs that are becoming obstructions or nuisances. Examples of this
are low branches that head out over a driveway or sidewalk and branches
that are rubbing on the side of a house or the roof. The most common
reason for this type of pruning, however, is to clear powerlines
and other overhead utility lines.
Trees and power lines are both important assets for our communities.
Trees provide beauty, shade, wildlife habitat, and wind protection,
while power lines bring us electricity for lights, heat, and appliances.
Unfortunately, trees and power lines often end up in conflict. Many
power outages are caused by trees that have grown into the lines.
Trees growing into power lines cause increased line clearing costs.
The pruning done during line clearing may also decrease tree health
and cause trees to become dangerous. Fortunately, modern power line
pruning techniques have been developed that result in healthier,
safer trees and reduced line clearing costs. However, they also
make a tree look much different than it would if traditional techniques
were used.
Topping
Utility lines traditionally have been kept clear of tree branches
by topping, also called hedging or shearing. In this method, the
entire crown of the tree is cut back to a certain distance below
the wires, much like the shearing of a hedge. Little time is spent
making proper pruning cuts so this method can be fairly fast. Unfortunately,
many stubs are left on the tree because most of the cuts are made
between the points where branches meet. Sprouts usually grow out
quickly from the stub and the old branch becomes rotten below the
stub cut. So in one or two years, instead of clear lines and a healthy
tree, we end up with sprouts back in the lines and an unhealthy
tree that is fast on its way to becoming a hazard. Line clearing
costs rise and the trees need to be topped heavier the next time
to remove the rot. This vicious cycle is repeated until the tree
is dead or gone.
Directional Pruning
Directional pruning is an alternative to topping that leaves trees
healthier and ultimately reduces line clearing costs. In directional
pruning, also called natural pruning or the "Shigo method"
(after a well-known tree researcher), only branches that head toward
the utility lines (or other obstructions) are pruned. Those that
are growing down or out away from the wires are left alone to continue
their growth. Also, no stubs are left since branches are always
pruned at the point where they reach another branch or at a "crotch".
Such pruning cuts heal well and minimize sprouting and decay when
properly made.
Proper cuts are made by removing all of the branch without leaving
a stub, but at the same time not disturbing the branch collar and
the branch bark ridge (see diagram). Flush cuts are no longer recommended
since they make larger wounds that lead to dieback and decay. Wound
dressings should not be used since they have been found to increase
decay. The branch that is left after cutting must be healthy and
vigorous and at least 1/3 the diameter of the branch that is removed.
Branches that are too small or growing poorly will be not be able
to suppress sprouting.
Trees that are directionally pruned will not have the familiar
hedged look of a topped tree. Instead, they will have a V-shape
if lines are directly overhead or an L-shape if lines are to one
side. Though this may appear to create an unbalanced or weak crown,
the tree will grow to correct any lack of balance and will end up
healthier than if it had been topped.
Directional pruning has many advantages over topping. First, it
leaves a tree that is nearly as healthy as before it was pruned.
Trees do not need to be pruned as often since there are less sprouts
and the branches that remain are growing away from the wires. This
saves money and reduces utility bills. Fewer wounds are created
on the tree and wounds that are made heal much better. Directional
pruning can also be started when a tree is young. As a tree's crown
grows, branches that are pointed away from the lines can be kept
while those pointed toward the lines can be removed.
Directional pruning works best if started when a tree is young
and may not work on trees that have been topped many times. Such
trees often are too rotten and poorly formed to benefit. Trees with
crowns that spread are the most easily pruned. Conifers and other
trees with strong central leaders or trunks are more difficult to
train with this method.
Tree Removal
Directional pruning will not solve all line clearance problems.
It doesn't work well on older trees that have been topped many times.
Trees with narrow, upright crowns like Lombardy poplars and some
conifers are also difficult to treat this way. In these cases tree
removal and replacement is preferable to topping. Replacement trees
should be small and selected to fit under the lines when mature
or should be planted to one side. Some utility companies have even
instituted tree replacement programs to encourage the planting of
more appropriate trees near utility lines.
Planting Precautions
The best way to prevent conflicts between trees and power lines
is to plant trees in the correct location. Though some large trees
grow under power lines naturally, many are planted there because
people do not realize how large they will get. Remember that a four
foot tall, two foot wide tree might end up being 60 feet tall and
30 feet across. Learn the mature size and crown characteristics
of any tree you buy and plant accordingly.
Avoid planting trees of any size directly under main power supply
lines since utility crews may need access to these areas. Small
trees (up to 20 feet tall) can be planted adjacent to power lines
but off to one side. Medium or large trees should be spaced 20 to
30 feet horizontally from power lines. The following table shows
the spacing from power lines for some trees commonly planted in
Utah.
Tree Size and Power
Lines
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Small Trees: Can be planted adjacent
to power lines
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Tree Type
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Mature Height
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Dwarf Fruit Trees
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20 to 25 feet
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Flowering Crabapple
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10 to 25 feet
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Redbud
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15 to 20 feet
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Purpleleaf Plum
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15 to 20 feet
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Hawthorns
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15 to 20 feet
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Ornamental Junipers
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10 to 20 feet
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Medium-Small Trees: Plant at least 15
feet horizontally from power lines
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Tree Type
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Mature Height
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Callery (Bradford) Pears
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20 to 35 feet
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Mountain-Ash
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20 to 30 feet
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White Spruce
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30 to 45 feet
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Medium-Large Trees: Plant at least 20
feet horizontally from power lines
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Tree Type
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Mature Height
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Green Ash
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40 to 60 feet
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Linden or Basswood
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40 to 60 feet
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Austrian, Scotch, Ponderosa Pines
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45 to 65 feet
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Norway Maple
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40 to 50 feet
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Honeylocust
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40 to 50 feet
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Buckeye and Horsechestnut
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30 to 45 feet
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Blue and Norway Spruces
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50 to 70 feet
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Large Trees: Plant at least 30 feet horizontally
from power lines
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Tree Type
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Mature Height
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Silver Maple
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50 to 70 feet
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Oaks
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50 to 70 feet
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Hackberry
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50 to 70 feet
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Sycamore and London Planetree
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70 to 80 feet
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Cottonwoods, Poplars
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70 to 90 feet
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For Assistance or additional information on tree selection, planting,
and care contact your County Extension office, District Forester,
or local nursery. For more information about trees and power lines
contact Utah Power or your local power provider.
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