COOP - Extension FAQs

A landscaping company planted 6 jaquemonti birch in my yard at the end of May. Two of them recently began developing darkish brown leaf spots in the center. They are getting plenty of water. On one of the leaves I found very tiny black insects. I did not find insects on any of the other leaves. What could the problem be and what should I do about it. I picked the infected leaves off that I could reach. I also collected the insects.

2009-08-10T16:36:00Z

From your description there may be two different things happening. The first possibility is that this particular type of tree is not heat tolerant and the leaves may be scorched because of our hot and dry weather conditions. This problem usually shows up in July and August with newly transplanted trees being the most susceptible because they have yet to develop extensive root systems. I have included a link below that has more information on leaf scorch.

The second possibility is that what you are seeing is a fungal disease. Fungal diseases usually start out as dark brown to black spots. These spots will spread and eventually grow together and in severe cases the leaves may die and fall off. When we have long periods of cool wet weather, like we did this spring, fungal diseases can be more problematic. If it is a fungal disease the good news is that now that we are having much hotter and dryer weather you should see a significant decrease in the spread of this problem. Below is a link with more information on a common fungal disease in our area. If it is fungal, some things you can do to help your tree out are to make sure to pick up and discard any of the leaves that fall off of this tree. This will help reduce the spread of the fungus. When watering the tree try to avoid getting water on the leaves. If the tree is watered by sprinklers make sure to run them early enough in the day so the leaves will be dry before nightfall. Below is a link with more information on watering trees. You can also apply a protective fungicide spray at bud break and to the newly emerging foliage next spring.

http://utahpests.usu.edu/plantdiseases/htm/ornamental/leafscorch

http://utahpests.usu.edu/PLANTDISEASES/htm/ornamental/anthracnose

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG-523.pdf

If neither of these look like what you are seeing on your trees please bring a sample into our office at 2001 S. State Street #S1200 for help with diagnosis.

We currently have an elm tree in our front yard. It has been diagnosed with slime flux. We would like to plant another tree next to it,seeing as they said the stump was so big that they would just leave it. Will this cause a problem for any other trees? We want another large shade tree. Will it get the slime flux too if we plant it near it?

2009-08-10T16:36:00Z

Slime flux is a bacterial disease that enters trees through openings or wounds on the tree. The bacteria have to have an opening to get into the tree and cause damage so the best way to try to prevent that from happening is to keep the new tree as healthy as possible. This would include things like keeping grass away from the base of the trunk so that lawnmowers and string trimmers can't damage it, proper pruning when needed that will allow the tree to seal over the pruning cuts, and not topping the tree.

I have included a couple of links below. The first is a link that has more information about slime flux. The second is a link with more information on pruning trees. I have also included a link to the USU Tree Browser. This is an interactive tool that helps you select trees according to your site specifications and personal preferences. By using the drop down menus on the left side you can select the specific criteria you are looking for and the tool will give you a list of trees that match.

http://utahpests.usu.edu/plantdiseases/htm/ornamental/slime

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/NR_FF_004.pdf

http://treebrowser.org/treeBrowser/usuTreeBrowser/index.html

Why are tomatoes turning black (dark) from the bottom up when they begin to ripen. They are also dark on the inside.

2009-08-10T16:36:00Z

The condition that you are seeing is called blossom end rot. Blossom-end rot is a physiological disorder caused by a calcium deficiency in the young fruit. Utah soils have plenty of calcium so even though technically it is the problem, the real issue is fluctuation in the amount of water available to the plant that makes the plant unable to transport the calcium as needed. Tomatoes, squash, peppers, eggplants and melons are all vulnerable to this problem. The good news is that normally only the first few fruits to ripen are damaged.

There are a couple of different things that you can do to help prevent this condition. Overwatering your plants can aggravate this condition, especially if your plants are in a heavier clay soil. Keep a close eye on how much water you apply and how much moisture is in the soil. Mulching around your plants can also help to reduce the amount of water lost to evaporation and can help keep soil moisture levels more consistent. In addition, over fertilizing your plants can also contribute to this condition. I have included a link below to our tomatoes fact sheet.

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/HG_2004-05.pdf

Our house is in Murray between the Jordan River and the North Jordan Canal. It faces east, so our backyard in on the west side. We have a steep slope of clay soil. We need some trees which would provide shade and privacy. We have tried river birch, blue spruce and a pine. All have died. We have a deep water system for the trees. The needles on our spruce and pine turned brown and dropped off. What kind of trees could we plant under these circumstances?

2009-08-10T16:36:00Z

There are several different types of trees that are better adapted to a heavier clay soil. Some of them would include Ash, Kentucky Coffeetree, Douglas Fir, Ginkgo, Hackberry, Honeylocust, Incense Cedar, Norway Spruce and American Sweetgum. Below I have included a link to the USU Tree Browser. This is an interactive tool that helps you select trees according to your site specifications and personal preferences. By using the drop down menus on the left side you can select the specific criteria you are looking for and the tool will give you a list of trees that match. Because you have a heavier clay soil you will want to select trees that have a medium to high rate of tolerance for drainage. The site also has pictures as well as a lot of great information on the trees.

http://treebrowser.org/treeBrowser/usuTreeBrowser/index.html

I have also included a couple of links on basic tree care. The first is a link about planting landscape trees and the second includes information on watering trees.

http://extension.usu.edu/forestry/Reading/Assets/PDFDocs/NR_FF/NRFF017.pdf

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG-523.pdf

I discovered on my peach tree there is a white larvae that has burrowed into the base of the trunk and a sticky peach colored substance is there. The rest of the tree looks healthy, but I only have about five peaches that made it this year. This is the third year for this tree, and when it was only a year oldit produced 35 peaches. Also, there are these black bugs with red heads on the tree that I have never seen before. HELP! I really want to save this tree!

2009-07-23T16:36:00Z

It sounds like your peach tree has greater Peachtree borer. The larva can be killed by inserting a knife or wire into the empty holes. I have included a link to a fact sheet that has more information on this insect as well as recommendations for control and management.

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/greater-peachtree-borers07.pdf

I have also included a link to the sign up page for the Tree Fruit IPM Advisory. This is a newsletter that is sent out with up to date information on pests and diseases happening in our area as well as recommendations. These newsletters have a great deal of valuable information and can be a great help in your home orchard.

http://utahpests.usu.edu/ipm/htm/subscriptions

As far as the insect goes, it is difficult for me to say for certain what type it is without actually seeing it. If you could bring a sample into our office at 2001 S. State Street #S2100 we can help you identify it.

i was baking a chicken casserole last night. the power went out after about 30 minutes of baking. i put it in the fridge. then, i cooked it for 1 and 1/2 hours more when the power came back on 3 hours later. i put it back in the frige. is it safe to eat tonight?

2009-07-23T16:36:00Z

Food safety is always a concern. It sounds like you followed safe practices though. You want to keep food out of the danger zone (40-140 degrees) where bacteria grow the quickest. Food shouldn't be in the danger zone for more than 2 hours total time. A refrigerator will stay cold for up to 24 hours when the power is off if you don't open and close the door a lot. Your quick thinking to put it in the refrigerator kept it safe.

How do I get rid of the Quaking Aspen suckers that are coming up in my lawn without hurting the trees or the grass?

2009-07-17T16:36:00Z

Aspen suckers are tough because that is how the tree grows. The only chance is to put a barrier down between the trees and the area where you don't want it and it needs to be at least 12 inches deep and 2 feet would be best.

We created square foot gardens last year and have discovered the cat has used them for a litter box over the winter and spring. There isn't a large amount of feces,which we remove, but we are concerned that it may have contaminated the soil. Should we dig it out and start over?

2009-07-16T16:36:00Z

Our literature says that you should not use cat/dog manure in gardens because of the parasites, germs etc. that they can contain. I called a vet and asked him. He said that your grow boxes should be Ok . You have removed the feces and don't need to remove the soil. He also said that if you put a little liquid Pine Sol in the boxes, the cats don't like it and won't use the spot. You can also cover the grow boxes in the fall with black plastic so the cat can't get in.

Hi, I have a lot of two year hybrid poplars that we've planted for a wind break and the leaves near the trunks are beginning to turn yellow. I've read that this can be because of lack of water or too much water or not enough fertilizer. It's July and we water them every day because of the 90+ temps. Any suggestions?

2009-07-16T16:36:00Z

It sounds like too much water. I prefer deeper and less frequent watering, normally established trees need a good soak every week to 10 days. Also, frequent watering does not force the tree to grow deep roots that go after water and will sustain a tree through hot days.
Frequent watering also washes away the nitrogen so a tree will rob nitrogen from older leaves to keep growing. This best explains your described your situation. If it were not enough water you would see browning of outer leaves especially those on the south and west side that get the brunt of wind, sun, and warm temperatures. Slowly cut back on your watering intervals but increase the amount. let the hose run longer but put more days between watering. We don't normally encourage fertilization of trees, especially not in the heat of the summer where it encourages lush green growth. Spring and late fall would be better.

Can I legally drill a small water well (or two) under 30 feet deep in my back yard without a permit?

2009-07-16T16:36:00Z

Legally, no. All water, surface and ground, belongs to the State of Utah. One can make application at Utah Division of Water Resources to put said water to beneficial use. If application is approved, you are allowed to use the water according to the conditions prescribed by the State Water Engineer. Will Atkin is in the State Water office in North Logan. If you want to pursue an application, Will can be reached at 752-8755.

I have a peach tree that has yellow leaves. Some are dark green but most are yellow.The fruit is small. I live in Ceder Valley I have kept an eye out for bugs and water deep evey other week. could it be iron?

2009-07-16T16:36:00Z

If the veins stand out as a little darker than the surounding area then it is iron deficiency. Zinc deficiency usually goes along with it. Nitrogen deficiency causes the leaves to look evenly lighter, no darker veins. If you add iron now, you will notice little if any improvement as the tree takes up most iron as the leaves are first being formed. The later in the summer, the less good it will do to add iron. There are iron foliar sprays you can apply that will work this time of year. They are not long lasting, but will help for now. Next spring at bud swell, apply chelated iron. Chelated is formulated to work best in our alkaline soils.

Your tree needs watering more frequently than once every other week. Don't waterlog the tree, but water it deeply once a week and let the soil dry out on top an inch or so down before you water again. (I am assuming this is a mature tree, not a young one)

I have black spots on my tomato plant leaves and some on the main stem. Will it kill the plant? Can I get rid of it? Will it apread to the soil or other plants? HELP. I see it in most of the greehouses I have been to. Is it to late to find someone with a place to find a clean tomato plant and still plant it and get fruit?

2009-07-16T16:36:00Z

Black spots on your tomato leaves and stem could be a fungal disease. These are commonly called leaf blights or leaf spots. Below is a link to a picture of what the symptoms of this disease typically looks like.

http://www.umext.maine.edu/gardennews/images/Early%20Blight%20on%20Tomato%20Leaf.jpg

These diseases are promoted by cool, wet conditions like we had this spring. Fungal diseases can spread but there are a few things that you can do to help keep it under control. If there are only a few leaves on your plants that are affected you can remove and discard them. In addition, water early in the morning so that the leaves of the plants will be dry before nightfall and let the soil dry out in between watering. There are fungicides that can be applied but all will have restrictions on how many days between application of the fungicide and when the fruit is safe to eat. If you choose to use one make sure to read the label and follow all of the directions carefully. As the weather clears up this problem will decrease. I have included a link on growing tomatoes that has more information.

http://extension.usu.edu/juab/files/uploads/Horticulture/vegetable%20garden/tomatof.pdf

If this does not look like what is happening to your tomatoes you can bring a sample into our office at 2001 S. State Street #S1200 and we will help identify the problem.

I have two maple trees in my parking strip. I believe they are the Autumn Blaze variety. They have a light green to yellow small leaf. The leaves are starting to die as if it needs water. They are spotted and turning brown and brittle. The branches are still green when I scrape the them. I do not think it is under heat stress since June has been mostly wet. We spoke with someone who lives about a mile from us who had the same problem last year and now the top of his tree is dead. We did see two other trees in his neighborhood with the same problem. It looks as though next year we may have the same dead trees if we do not do something to prevent them from dying. Can you tell me what is wrong and what I can do to save the trees?

2009-07-16T16:36:00Z

There may be a couple of different things happening to your maple trees. The first possibility is a fungal disease called anthracnose. When we have long periods of cool wet weather, like we did this spring, fungal diseases can be more problematic. Below is a link with more information on this disease.

http://utahpests.usu.edu/PLANTDISEASES/htm/ornamental/anthracnose

Fungal diseases usually start out as dark brown to black spots. These spots will spread and eventually grow together and in severe cases the leaves may die and fall off. Control of this disease isn't easy but there are some things that you can do to help your tree out. Make sure to pick up and discard any fallen leaves. This will help reduce the spread of the fungus. Also, when working around the tree make sure that the lawnmower and weed eater do not run into it and damage the trunk. And when watering the tree try to avoid getting water on the leaves. Below is a link with more information on watering trees.

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG-523.pdf

You can also apply a protective fungicide spray at bud break and to the newly emerging foliage next spring. If you choose to use a fungicide make sure that maple trees are specifically mentioned on the label.

The second possibility is that your tree may have a disease called verticillium wilt. This disease is also fungal but the symptoms usually show up in hotter weather. The main symptom of this disease is that whole branches of leaves will suddenly wilt and dry up. Below is a link with more information on this disease.

http://utahpests.usu.edu/PLANTDISEASES/htm/ornamental/verticilliumshade

If either of these options do not sound like what is happening to your tree or if you are unsure you can bring a sample of your tree into our office at 2001 S. State Street # S1200 and we will help identify the problem.

I would like to put a barrier inbetween my lawn and my side yard where we have quakies to keep the suckers from coming up. What can I use and how deep do I put it into the ground? Also, they are next to my neighbors driveway, how far do the roots travel and should I barrier that side as well?

2009-07-16T16:36:00Z

Installing barriers to try to stop Aspens from spreading is usually very impractical and does not produce a lot of control. The barrier may confine the root system but the roots may just grown down and around and up the other side. Aspen trees tend to produce the most suckers when they are stressed. To help reduce the amount of suckers they are producing focus on maintaining the health and vigor of the tree by watering deeply but infrequently, fertilizing when needed and disturbing the root system as little as possible. In addition, avoid pruning the trees as this will also increase the amount of suckers they produce. I have included a link to a document that has some information on deep watering trees.

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG-523.pdf

I have some fruit trees in a lawn area that I have been fertilizing with ammonium sulfate, but needed to change to a weed & feed. Is the fruit still safe to eat?

2009-07-16T16:36:00Z

The fruit should be safe to eat as long as you take extra care when applying the weed and feed fertilizer to make sure none of the fertilizer come into contact with either the leaves or the fruit that is on the tree. I have included a link that has some more information regarding the selection and use of fertilizers.

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG_509.pdf

I have an apricot tree in my backyard that is loaded with apricots. We have not sprayed the tree with anything, but I would like to use what I can of the fruit that is not 'buggy'. The apricots have red/brown spots on the skin, my research tells me it might be a fungus. Would the fruit be safe to eat if it was cooked and then canned? Also, I would like to transplant some of my fathers raspberry bushes, when is the best time to do that?

2009-07-15T16:36:00Z

It sounds like your apricots may have a fungal disease called coryneum blight or shothole fungus. This is a fairly common problem, especially when we have wet springs. While the fruit does not look very appealing it is still edible. Peel off the skin where the spots are and the rest of the fruit can be used. I have included a link to a fact sheet about coryneum blight that has more information.

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/coryneum-blight08.pdf

As for the raspberries early spring is the best time to transplant the bushes. Below is a link about growing raspberries in Utah.

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/raspberry-production04.pdf

We have lost 2 pine trees and are now loosing our quaking aspen. It has black spots on leaves and trunk has back on it also. The leaves are falling off. Is there anything that can save the tree?

2009-07-15T16:36:00Z

Black spots on your Quaking aspen could be a fungal disease called aspen leaf spot. The symptoms of this disease start out with small dark brown spots with light centers. These spots will spread and eventually grow together and in severe cases the leaves may die and fall off. Most aspens will survive this disease but it can weaken them, making them susceptible to other problems.

Below are two links. One that has some pictures of what aspen leaf spot symptoms look like and one with more information on the disease.

http://utahpests.usu.edu/plantdiseases/htm/ornamental/aspenspot/aspenspotimages

http://utahpests.usu.edu/plantdiseases/htm/ornamental/aspenspot

Control of this disease isn't easy but there are some things that you can do to help your tree out. Make sure to pick up and discard any fallen leaves. This will help reduce the spread of the fungus. Also, when working around the tree make sure that the lawnmower and weed eater do not run into it and damage the trunk. And when watering the tree try to avoid getting water on the leaves. Below is a link with more information on watering trees.

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG-523.pdf

You can also apply a protective fungicide spray at bud break and to the newly emerging foliage next spring. If you choose to use a fungicide make sure that aspen trees are specifically mentioned on the label. There are some recommendations on products that can be used included in the second link above.

If this does not look like the problem your tree is having bring a sample into our office. We will help to identify the problem. Our address is 2001 S. State Street #S1200.

I have millions of tiny black jumping bugs in my garage. They go in and out of the cracks in the floors, all over the concrete, walls, etc. I see very few in the day time; However at night millions everywhere. I have tried every spay I know of but nothing seems to kill them. Please Help.

2009-07-15T16:36:00Z

Springtails are one of the most abundant organisms in soil and plant litter
around the world. They feed on fungus and decaying material, and do not
bite humans. Our cool, wet spring has been perfect for building populations
of springtails. Nowe that the sun has returned the leaf litter/soil outside
is starting to dry out. When this happens, these insects migrate into homes
in search of moisture. That sounds exactly
like what has happened in your home. Read below for more information.

Here the links for good information on springtails:
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/insect/05602.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74136.html

Please read these factsheets and send questions if you have any.

I have black beetles about an inch long in my home. They do not like the light, and look similar to a blister beetle, but the head is more compact to the body. I only see one or two at a time, but for every one I kill, one more shows up. What are they, and how do I get rid of them?

2009-07-15T16:36:00Z

Your beetles might be roaches. Check out these pictures and see if any
match:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7467.html
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05553.html
http://bugguide.net/node/view/177/bgimage?from=0

Let me know what you think, and then we can go from there. The first two
publications have control recommendations as well.

I had some trouble with Squash Bugs attacking my Spagetti Squash. Now my plants looks as if it may have Cucurbit Yellow Vine Disease (CYVD). Should I try to deteremine if its really CYVD and if it is, what do I need to do?

2009-07-15T16:36:00Z

We can send samples to Oregon State for disease analysis. Please read the
link about collecting/submitting a proper sample. Their services are
expensive, so please send a good sample. Our fee is $5.00 per sample.

http://www.science.oregonstate.edu/bpp/Plant_Clinic/submit_sample.htm

Please let me know how you would like to proceed.