COOP - Extension FAQs

What is the best way to plant wildflowers?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"Do we need to rake up the dead grass before we plant? What is the best way to plant the wildflowers? For our front yard, if we plant drought resistant grass, do I have to remove the dead Kentucky bluegrass first? Also, are wildflowers and native grasses bug/slug resistant?"

First, you need to make sure the grass is actually dead. If it's still alive you will start seeing some growth when the temperatures start to warm up (about March). If this is the case, allow the grass to grow up a little in early spring and then treat it with Round-Up. Either way, you will need to remove the dead sod before you plant your wildflowers. I would suggest broadcasting the wildflower seeds and then raking over them to make sure they are covered. It will be important the first year that you control the weeds - this will cut down on the possibility of future weed problems. Once you get the wildflowers established, they will have a much better chance of out competing the weeds. In general, native plants do tend to be more insect and disease resistant.

I am currently looking to put in a turf grass and I wanted to know which would be the better choice between Buffalograss, Blue grama, crested wheat grass or Sideoats grama grass?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"I live in Tooele. I am currently looking put in a turf grass and I wanted to know which would be the better choice between Buffalograss, Blue grama,, crested wheat grass or Sideoats grama grass? My soil is heavy clay and is full of rocks. I do intend on planting a couple of shade trees in the area in question. You advice would be greatly appreciated."

It all depends on the time of the year you desire green/blue grass. Buffalo grass and Blue gramma are warm season grasses and will be dormant most of the year except for June July and August. It is hard to get established as well but can be satisfactory. Chested wheat grass is a cool season grass and will look its best during spring and fall. It will tend to go dormant in the heat of the summer but green up early spring and stay green late into the fall. Both choices will work however, the grasses mentioned are not very shade tolerant. Shade trees in the are could pose a problem. To see these grasses up close and personal come to the Tooele County Extension Office at 151 North Main in Tooele. We have 4' X 4' plots of these grasses for your viewing pleasure.

How deep should perennials, annuals, and lawn be watered?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"I have just read your pamphlet (online) on how to water trees and shrubs. The article states that trees and shrubs should be watered to a depth of 18-20 inches. How deep should perennials, annuals, and lawn be watered?"

As the online bulletin suggests, I would water your trees and shrubs to an average depth of about 18-20 inches. I would encourage you to water your lawn to a depth of about 6 inches- if your soil is that deep. Your perennials and annuals should be watered to a depth of about 6-8 inches (similar to turfgrass or a little deeper if they will be competing with the turfgrass for water).

Would Zoysia grass be a good alternative to the bluegrass?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"I have heard the name Zoysia grass as a grass that uses much less water than the bluegrass mixes many of us have here in Utah. Can you tell me anything about it? Would it be a good alternative to the bluegrass? Would buffalo or blue grama grass better options? I have fairly large grass areas in my yard and would like something that would be more drought friendly."

Zoysiagrass has come up a number of times in the past couple of weeks, primarily because of some advertisements for Amazoy. In short, Amazoy, or zoysiagrass is not a good option here in northern Utah. While there are a number of cold hardy zoyisagrasses, I wouldn't recommend them. Amazoy is actually a variety called Meyer zoysiagrass, which has been around since the 1950's, so even if you wanted to use zoysiagrass, there are much improved varieties being sold. I don't believe anyone is selling zoysiagrass in northern Utah, however.

I have someone with about ¾ of an acre and they want to plant some kind of grass that won't require a lot of water or mowing but is good for children to play on.

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"I have someone with about ¾ of an acre and they want to plant some kind of grass that won't require a lot of water or mowing but is good for children to play on. They have some water for the property and are going to put in two big sprinklers in hopes that will cover the area. They dont want any animals on it. They are willing to try different types of plants on the acreage. Can you recommend anything for her?"

Tall fescue works well in a low maintenance situation. It needs regular watering to remain green during the summer, but slightly less water than Kentucky bluegrass. Fescue is more tolerant of prolonged drought than Kentucky bluegrass. This would be the best choice if this person expects a lot of kid play on it during the year. Buffalograss still needs some irrigation during the summer, but will use significantly less water (½ of that needed by Kentucky bluegrass). Buffalograss will be brown (dormant) during the cooler times of year, from October to April. When Buffalograss is dormant, it shouldn't have a lot of traffic, i.e. soccer games, etc. Some activity is fine. It is more expensive to plant and a bit more difficult to establish than Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. Crested wheatgrass is the best solution if you don't want to water at all once the grass is established. It will create a nice green turf in spring and fall, but will be dormant during the summer.

I live in Provo and have two large dogs. They have made my back yard dirt. To fix this, should I sod or hydro seed?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"I live in Provo and have two large dogs. They have made my back yard dirt. To fix this, should I sod or hydro seed? I want a fix before winter. I also want to know what kind of grass is good for having dogs on it."

You are facing a difficult challenge. Dogs, and especially large ones, can be very tough on a lawn. I would recommend sodding the area, especially this late in the season. If you were to hydroseed, you'd run the very likely risk of having your dogs disturb the seed before it could get established. If you use sod, be sure that you apply sufficient water to allow it to establish before winter and try to minimize dog traffic if at all possible.

We live in a rural area and our indoor and outdoor water source is a flowing artesian well. It's only August, and the well is no longer "flowing." What has to happen for the well to start producing water?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"We live in a rural area and our indoor and outdoor water source is a flowing artesian well. It's only August, and the well is no longer "flowing." We're still able to get water indoors via a pressure pump/holding tank (it takes our pump about 5 minutes to refill the water holding tank after one "flush"), but fear that will soon end. Any suggestions? Also, what has to happen for the well to start producing water?"

I suspect that you are experiencing temporary loss of water pressure from your well because of this year's drought conditions. As you probably know, the source of an artesian well is groundwater that is under pressure. As a result, when you tap into this groundwater region (called an artesian aquifer), the water flows freely at the surface. Under drought conditions, groundwater levels may drop, causing a reduction in the underground pressure on your water source. Because of this, the water is no longer flowing freely at the surface. For the water to begin flowing again, the groundwater source needs to recharge. In other words, we need rain (or snow) that will soak into the ground and eventually restore the water to your aquifer. I can't predict when your well will begin flowing again because I don't know the exact conditions of your site. How fast the aquifer recharges depends on many things, including local soils, underlying geology, other groundwater sources, etc. You might try not using the artesian well at all for a few days. If the pressure seems to come back fairly quickly, you may get pressure restored to your well relatively soon once we get some rain again. Keep in mind, however, that water movement through the ground is very slow compared to water movement on the surface. Meanwhile, you have several options until the pressure in your well is restored: 1. You can take care of some of your water needs by using bottled or stored water; 2. You can use an alternative source of water (such as trucking in water) to fill your holding tank; 3. You can explore pumping water from your artesian well source; 4. You can explore putting in a new well. For the last two options, you will need to contact a well digger or pump installer to discuss this with you. Your local Utah Water Rights offices keep a list of licensed water well drillers in your area. Their numbers are: Cedar City: 435-586-4231; Logan: 435-752-8755; Price:435-637-1303; Richfield: 435-896-4429; Salt Lake: 801-538-7240; and Vernal: 435-781-5327. The Utah Division of Water Rights in Salt Lake City (801-538-7240) can verify that a contractor is licensed and bonded. Remember, if you store water, be careful to use a clean container and treat it as needed. Check out the Water Storage fact sheet on the Extension Web site (FN 176). If you develop a new well, you will also want to get the well tested. Contact your local Health Department for assistance.

I am wondering if I have some sort of fungus in my lawn.

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"I am wondering if I have some sort of fungus in my lawn. I have a lot of spots that appear to be brown or dry. My wife has been putting more watering these spots for the last couple of weeks and they are not greening up. Do you have and suggestions?"

What you are describing sounds like heat and drought stress. However, if you have increased the watering to those areas without improvement, it is probably something else. One possibility is a disease, usually caused by some type of fungus. Often, treating with fungicides is very expensive and you can be just as effective by managing the grass to keep it healthy. Consult the Utah State University Extension Publication HG-517, Basic Turfgrass Care. You can access it online at:
http://web2.ad.ext.usu.edu/htm/publications/publication=5793

Another possibility is insect damage. This time of year you could be seeing sod webworm damage, grub damage, or billbug damage. If you have noticed some small, white moths flying around as you walk across the lawn, it indicates sod web worm damage. If the grass can be pulled up and rolled back like a carpet, it indicates grub damage. If you tug on the grass and the blades pull out very easily, it indicates billbug damage. I would recommend consulting the Utah State University Extension Agent in your county for suggestions on treating your lawn for these insects. As with disease, you can also be very effective in controlling the damage by managing the grass to keep it healthy.

Can I use laundry water to water plants and lawn instead of just sending it into the sewer?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"Can I use laundry water to water plants and lawn instead of just sending it into the sewer, and if so is there some where I can go to find more information on this?"

We are assuming you live in Utah. If not, you will need to check with your state environmental quality and/or health department. Utah does not currently allow the use of graywater piped directly from the home for irrigating landscapes. Exceptions can be made for certain experimental systems. If you want to pursue this begin by contacting your local health department.

Many other western states do allow the use of graywater and there are few problems. There are some good resources on the web. Take a look at the following sites:
http://www.graywater.net/
http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/hortcult/homegard/graywate.htm
http://ag.arizona.edu/AZWATER/arroyo/071rain.html
http://www.lasvegassun.com/sunbin/stories/lv-other/2001/jul/06/512048650.html

I have noticed quite a few brown areas in lawns in the Salt Lake area, including my own.

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"I have noticed quite a few brown areas in lawns in the Salt Lake area, including my own. I have tried to be water-wise when watering my lawn. Every 3 days, I water after the sun goes down or after 6 pm in shaded areas only. The settings were max 15 minutes and I recently added another 5 minutes. But the brown areas aren't showing any significant improvement. My neighbor waters more often than I and her lawn has a huge brown area that appeared in the last couple of weeks. Another neighbor said it was because there is some kind of insect infesting the lawns in the area but I have also heard it is because of the early onset of the hot days. I know if the problem is the heat I will just have to wait it out. But if it is insects, what do I do?"

The brown areas that you are seeing in your lawn are to be expected given the temperatures we are currently experiencing here in Utah. You are to be commended for your water-wise irrigating, but even if you were to pour the water on right now, it is still very likely that you would have brown areas. The reason for this is that the cool-season grasses we typically grow here in Utah are not well-adapted to the current high temperatures. Rest assured, however, that even though you may have brown areas, the grass is not dead. It is only becoming dormant in order to protect itself from heat and drought. In the fall, as the temperatures cool off, grass will revive and become green again. In fact, you could apply as little as 1" of water per month right now and the grass would still be fine in the fall. This is known as survival watering because it keeps the crown (where growth originates) of the grass plants alive even though the leaves are dormant. It is most likely that your problem is heat related, but if you are concerned about insects, I would encourage you to take a sample of your lawn into your Utah State University County Extension Office for examination. The sample should include 2-3" of soil as well as the grass.

This year we've noticed that many of our scrub oak trees have not shown any leaves. Adjacent properties have the same issue.

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"We recently purchased property that has quite a few scrub oak trees. Last year these trees were full of leaves. However, this year we've noticed that many of our scrub oak trees have not shown any leaves. Adjacent properties have the same issue. We've also noticed that many of the scrub oaks in Wasatch and Summit counties have not yet produced leaves? Is the drought causing this or are there other factors? Our property does not have irrigation access."

Many trees and shrubs are suffering from late frosts we've had this year in northern Utah. Even cold-hardy plants have been frozen back. Past years' droughts usually don't matter in terms of their effects on this year's foliage so early in the year, as long as you currently have adequate moisture. If it's currently very dry then it could be drought, though the trees would have leaf-out and then later shown signs of drought injury. There also are a number of pests that can cause shoot dieback or temporary defoliation of Gambel oak; go to http://web2.ad.ext.usu.edu/drought/htm/publications/publication=5775

I am going to Hydroseed this weekend and need to know how much to water so that it germinates correctly.

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"I am going to Hydroseed this weekend and need to know how much to water so that it germinates correctly. I have an automatic system and the soil is a sandy loam."

Hydroseed normally places a mulch-like carrier along with the seed. This material absorbs water and slows drying at the soil surface. However, frequent, small doses of water are still necessary to germinate the seed and carry young plants through the sensitive germination and establishment phases. After hydroseeding, irrigate once a day with a relatively small amount of water (0.1-0.2 inch) until germination occurs. Periodically check the hydroseed layer to insure it is remaining moist during the heat of the day. If you are in an extremely hot, dry area and the layer appears to be drying out, you may have to irrigate twice a day until germination occurs. After germination back off and irrigate once every other day with approximately 0.25 inch of water. Continue to irrigate every other day for about 1 month to allow the grass root system to establish. After 1 month gradually return to the normal irrigation cycle recommended for your area.

To determine how much water your system is applying use straight sided cans or catch cups available from your local County Extension office. Place several cans at different locations in the landscape. Turn the sprinkler system on and catch the output for 10 or 15 minutes. Measure the amount of water in each can and calculate the output rate in inches per hour. Use this output rate to determine how long you have to run your system to apply the desired amount of water.

What kind of grass does well in St. George with minimal watering and how/when can we start it from seed?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"I am a new home owner in Saint George with absolutely NO former gardening experience (aside from killing a few house plants). I actually have many questions but will limit it to two.
1) What kind of grass does well in this area with minimal watering and how/when can we start it from seed? The soil is very sandy, never tested and the lawn will have moderate to heavy traffic. 2) What is a good gardening resource for a beginner who is entirely illiterate in gardening terms and techniques but still wants to do it all "myself.""

Your choice of grass in the St. George area is going to be somewhat dependent on your expectations for your lawn. Two possible species for you to use are tall fescue and buffalograss. Tall fescue is commonly used in St. George. It is a cool-season grass that looks very similar to Kentucky bluegrass. It is also very deeply-rooted which allows it to survive drought stress well. There are several tall fescue sod suppliers to choose from in your area and seeding is also an option. Another possibility for you is Buffalograss. It is a warm-season grass that has a more blue-gray color than Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. While there is a Buffalograss sod supplier in Sandy, it might be more cost-effective for you to seed due to your location. The big question in deciding which species to choose is how much watering do you want to do? Tall fescue has a water requirement that is slightly less than Kentucky bluegrass. This means that you would need to apply approximately 30 inches of water to it each year. Buffalograss, on the other hand, uses about 1/4 the water of Kentucky bluegrass and so you would need to apply approximately 8 inches of water to it each year. The only drawback of Buffalograss is that is is a bit slow to repair itself and does not respond well to traffic. If you anticipate a great deal of wear from pets or children, you may want to look more closely at tall fescue.

I would like to replace my dying grass with wildflowers on a sandy, hill on S. mountain. What kind of wildflowers are drought resistant and would they grow well, and where could I buy them?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Mon, 11 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

Wildflowers such as blanket flower, penstemon species, oriental poppies, coreopsis and globemallow are suggestions for drought resistant species for your situation. Granite Seed Co., http://www.graniteseed.com/mixes/index.html is good place to look for information about wildflowers as well as a good wildflower seed supplier.

I want to revamp my lawn area plant more drought tolerant plants. Is there a way I can adjust my sprinklers to work with my new landscape - without digging the system up or hiring a professional?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Mon, 11 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

The process is called retrofitting and you will be much more successful with it if you have a reasonable idea of the design of your current sprinkler system. You will also be more successful if your landscape irrigation system is separated into different zones or run from different valves. If your current lawn area is on its own irrigation zone or valve, you may choose to do something as simple as removing the nozzles from the existing sprinklers and replacing them with multi-outlet emission devices. These devices allow you to run dripline from the sprinklers to specific plants in your landscape and may have room for up to 8 outlets. This is the most efficient way to irrigate your new drought-tolerant plants and there are several manufacturers of such equipment. You might also choose to irrigate your new landscape with your current system and adjust your irrigation schedule to compensate for the lower water requirements of the plants. This would be particularly effective for irrigating a drought-tolerant ground cover. Another strategy would be capping sprinkler heads that are no longer needed in your new landscape. Whichever you choose, these are all methods that you could do on your own without digging or hiring a professional.

If I don't have enough water to fully irrigate all of my crop land should I try to spread the water across all of the acreage, or irrigate fewer acres with closer to full irrigation?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Mon, 11 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

Concentrate the water on fewer acres or on the crop giving the highest economic return. It is best to fully irrigate the acreage that can be fully irrigated with the available water, and let the rest of the area go.

How long should I run my sprinklers to irrigate my lawn properly?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Mon, 11 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

While this seems like a simple question, it is actually rather complex. Different sprinkler heads emit different amounts of water and it is impossible to know exactly how much water your system puts out over a period of time without actually testing it. The manufacturer's specifications for the sprinkler heads will list a precipitation rate, but this is water pressure-dependent and you should still test your system. Testing can be done with something as simple as a soup cans or a milk cartons, or you may obtain irrigation catch cups for this purpose from your county USU Extension office. The testing is described in detail on the following website: http://www.uc.usbr.gov/progact/waterconsv/pub_select.html

What types of grass use the most (or least) amount of water?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Mon, 11 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

In Utah, the most commonly-used type of grass is Kentucky bluegrass. Unfortunately, it also uses more water than any other turfgrass species. Other options that will do well in Utah's climate but use less water are Tall fescue, the fine leaf fescues, Buffalograss, Blue grama, and Crested wheatgrass. Tall fescue uses from 10 to 30% less water than Kentucky bluegrass and fine leaf fescues use slightly less than that. Buffalograss and Blue grama grass use approximately 50% less water than Kentucky bluegrass. Crested wheatgrass can actually survive without any supplemental irrigation once it's established.

The governor's initiative says that I shouldn't water between 10AM and 6 PM. Won't I have disease problems if I irrigate at night?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Mon, 11 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

This is a common misconception. While it is true that irrigating at night will increase the humidity in your landscape, it will not be enough to encourage diseases if you are not over-watering. This is a good reason to monitor your irrigation carefully and to follow an appropriate irrigation schedule.

It is July 6th and I have a dirt yard now. Is it too late to plant a few trees and shrubs and would it be better to hydroseed now or wait until September?

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Mon, 11 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

The timing of your hydroseeding depends largely on the turfgrass species that you are trying to grow. If you will be seeding any of the cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescues or the fine-leaf fescues, it would be better to wait until the weather cools off in the fall. The fall is the best time to seed those grasses. If you will be using a warm-season grass such as buffalograss, this time of year would be alright for seeding although June would have been better.